The standard seems to be 5 inches from the back of the box to the tail tip, yet I see Tyler boards, the new G&S Noserider II and JT’s boards with box’s that looks to be back as far as 3- 3 1/2 inches from the tip. Are these guys foiling some more meat back there or just plugging them back there and hope they dont pop out the deck the first time you hit the sand? I notice alot of Tyler boards have two stringers that are offset just far enough as to reinforce the box when they hit the tail. My current board has a box set at 4 inches from the tail, and I really dont want to have to glass the fin on to get it further back on my next board. Any input?
The standard seems to be 5 inches from the back of the box to the tail > tip, yet I see Tyler boards, the new G&S Noserider II and JT’s boards > with box’s that looks to be back as far as 3- 3 1/2 inches from the tip. > Are these guys foiling some more meat back there or just plugging them > back there and hope they dont pop out the deck the first time you hit the > sand? I notice alot of Tyler boards have two stringers that are offset > just far enough as to reinforce the box when they hit the tail. My current > board has a box set at 4 inches from the tail, and I really dont want to > have to glass the fin on to get it further back on my next board. Any > input? I have put boxes in on my own boards that did in fact touch the deck of the board. It is a matter of cosmetics that the box shows through. When I have a tail this thin, I do a stepped route, full depth in the front and as deep as possible in the rear (heh heh, he said in the rear) in a series of steps. This way as much of the box that can be sunk into the board, gets in, only the last portion of the tail remains high out of the board to be sanded off.
I have put boxes in on my own boards that did in fact touch the deck of > the board. It is a matter of cosmetics that the box shows through. When I > have a tail this thin, I do a stepped route, full depth in the front and > as deep as possible in the rear (heh heh, he said in the rear) in a series > of steps. This way as much of the box that can be sunk into the board, > gets in, only the last portion of the tail remains high out of the board > to be sanded off. Thanks as always for responding Jim. So putting the box further back so it almost goes through to the deck does not make it substantially more suceptible to failure then normal placement? On your step down process, do you sand off the top of the box? Wouldnt that make it impossible to move the fin all the way back? What is your opinion on using paired stringers to reinforce the box. I want the box far back, but at the same time, with all the trips to the sand, I am worried about durability. Thanks again, Russ
Thanks as always for responding Jim. So putting the box further back so it > almost goes through to the deck does not make it substantially more > suceptible to failure then normal placement? On your step down process, do > you sand off the top of the box? Wouldnt that make it impossible to move > the fin all the way back? What is your opinion on using paired stringers > to reinforce the box. I want the box far back, but at the same time, with > all the trips to the sand, I am worried about durability.>>> Thanks again, Russ I use wood shims to raise the rear of my gig when routing thin tails.Aloha, Kokua
Thanks as always for responding Jim. So putting the box further back so it > almost goes through to the deck does not make it substantially more > suceptible to failure then normal placement? On your step down process, do > you sand off the top of the box? Wouldnt that make it impossible to move > the fin all the way back? What is your opinion on using paired stringers > to reinforce the box. I want the box far back, but at the same time, with > all the trips to the sand, I am worried about durability.>>> Thanks again, Russ The twin stringer is called the sailboard stringer combo. The sailboard community used them because of the extreme torque placed on the fins, it is the BEST way to stabalize ANY fin box. You have to realize that where the box meets the bottom, there is only about 1/16th or less contact of glass and box. More luck than science on NOT having box failures more often. In my own factory, I used to sand down the box area, then put 2 staggered layers of cloth over the box, re-hotcoat, then sand the entire board. It was a gloss and polish over everything, when finished, I dropped the fin box router template back on and had another router with a carbide V groove bit. Then the center cloth was removed, leaving just a slight bevel around the inside lip of the fin channel. I had left them flush at first, but the fin would snag the cloth edges and pull it loose from the top of the box. This showed me that resin DOESN’T stick to the boxes all that well.