Getting all my “duck’s in a row” for shaping my first board. I am struggling with what kind of fin set-up to use. I am leaning toward boxes/plug systems (any reccomendations there would help too) because they seem like they would be easier to “get right” compaired to glass-on’s. Less margin for error? What are the groups reccomendations on fin systems v. glass-on’s for a rookie?
I know I will probably get burnt for this but I use FCS beacause they are easier to install and more readily available. They are very easy to install you dont even need a jig. Glass ons are a pain in the ass. I always seem to get bubbles in the corners. Cheers
Mainesurfer, In my experience, you’d be better off installing a center finbox, and some kind of removable side fins. That is, if you’re going to shape a longboard. If it’s a shortboard then the center box is out. The great advantage of removable fins, is that you can experiment with different combinations of fins for your board, trying them all to see what is going to work best on that particular board. There is a lot of passionate discussion as to what plug system works the best. I use FCS because that’s what I started with, and have had no problems with them, either on installation or performance. I think some of the other systems are just as good, though. With glass-ons, you get one chance to get it right, and then you live with it. A little risky for a first try, I think. Have fun and good luck! Doug
My first glass job, I made a fin panel, cut out and foiled the fins and glassed them on. They were crude foils and my glass-on technique was sub-par. One fin broke off, I fixed it, and it broke off again. I replaced the two side fins with FCS. Fin systems are soooooooo easy compared to glassing them on - especially the sanding stage. But knowing how to glass on fins is a good skill and it is the traditional boardbuilding method. Glassing on a single fin is not bad. But three little fins close together are a chore (but worth it). If you glass them on, make sure you take all the excess resin out of the fin rope and dont sand through the cloth at the radius on the base (even though its so easy to do). Really it just depends on what you want. Either way it will come out and you will have learned something.
FCS all the way.
Especially as you’re in Maine, with all those gaht-damm rocks, removable fins - definitely. As has been mentioned, FCS is good and easy, a hole saw or Forstner bit will be fine along with good layout. If you go with FCS, a touch of the file or a fine sawblade where the tabs join the body of the fin makes for a nice breakaway for when fin meets boulder. Much easier and cheaper than replacing a blasted out plug or box. Center fins - well, how big a board is this? hope that’s of use doc…
Only just started shaping, and all my boards have been glass on fins. Your first will most likely be your worst. My second came out looking at least 100% better. Just make sure the little bubbles at the top of the fin are out ( make right-sized fin panels) , and make sure you squeegee out the base and fins. But they make for a great looking board, espically when you can add your own artwork to them.
…Box fins are nice,easy? not in my opinion,easy if you know how.FCS is one of the cheapest to get started,but if you’re serious about doing this on a regular basis,I would look into other systems as well.The edge system is by far the easiest to install(most don’t know this because most never have used this box system)of all set-ups and with a dozen purchase fin sets, you get the installation kit free.Rabbit’s fin solution system is like FCS but is stronger,and requires no extra tools.I prefer Red-X, not anymore difficult to install,easy infact,if you now what your doing.I have my own way of installing,and it’s faster,and cleaner than the factory specs and easier for me to use my own make shift tools rather than using there’s,not to say that there’s anything wrong their installation tools,I just tweeked my ofishl jig and use double routers,no re-calibrating dope proof,and I don’t even use a plunge router.Tom was impressed on how even and tight the cuts were w/o being weak.Tom really went out of his way to help me perfect my set-up and supplied me with setting jigs,and other small parts. …Now that leaves us with,ofishl,future,lock box,and a few others that I’m not fully familar with.Check in to it with open eyes and learn, …My suggestion: glass-ons for your first ,if not the first few.If you want to be proficent at glassing then learn from the beginning like most of us that have glassed for any good length of time,pro or not. …If this post isn’t discouraging then keep on glassing,if it is then STOP and take your finished blank to a pro glasser and pay the extra 35-50 bucks ,it’s worth it to pay out a little extra to avoid the major headaches of learning how to glass.Herb
First board - do the glass-ons. They will look like crap, but so will the glass job so no worries. By the fifth board you should know enough about glass-ons to make the decision if they are worth the effort or not. I would suggest buying your fins at first so you at least have one less disaster to deal with while learning the glass-on technique. Be sure to crack your fin rope and be certain to get the cloth flat on the fin and board with a nice fillet shape before the resin goes off or you will be doing a lot of sanding. Use a heat gun to warm the fin and board before putting the hot glue so you get a good bond that will hold securely while you squeegee your brains out to get the bubbles and puddles off the fin. An angle guage will assure you if you have fins set properly. If the resin cures and you notice a fin is grossly at the wrong angle, hit it with the heat gun and bend it over. I assume you know the rest.
When I make glass on fins, they’re 2 or 3 layers of 30 oz mat with a layer of 1/8 mahogany ply either side. They’re lighter, cheaper, and the wood is MUCH easier to foil than the glass. They have glass strength at the leading edge where it’s needed and very little flex. To set them, stand the fin in position and run a piece of tape from about 3/4 way up the leading edge down to the rail, each side. I just eyeball to get it straight or you could use a square. Mix about a teaspoon or so of lam resin thickened with fibers to make a paste and spread it smoothly along the fin/hull joint. When it sets remove the tape. I take apart a square of leftover cloth, side length maybe three inches longer than the fin base, the individual yarns laid parallel make a nice, basically free, rope. Divide in two and lay on each side of the fin. Cut two layers of cloth to cover the whole fin plus whatever you want on the board. Realize that the strength needs to be mainly at the forward edge of the fin - that’s where it will see the greatest stress. Mix lam resin to set it all up, I use a 1" brush to wet and saturate the rope, then the fin and lay up the glass on the fin and board. No sticky fingers if you do it this way! The brushwork over the glass smooths the rope under the glass and forms a nice fillet; it can also squeeze out bubbles. Careful attention to the front and rear edge/corners will produce a result without bubbles. This technique leaves more resin in the rope than if you used your hands to wet it out and squeeze it, but note that with the glass rope strands oriented parallel to the fin, they aren’t being used for much more than filler anyway.