Glass weight on a Superblue??

Hello. I’m a longtime lurker, first time poster, with a question for the experts. I searched the archives, to no avail, so here goes: A shaper friend of mine just shaped me a beautiful 10’6" noserider that I’m hoping to have glassed this week. I learned after he shaped it that it’s a superblue blank [dohh!], not the supergreen I thought it’d be. In hindsight, I should have specified supergreen, but I thought that supergreen was kinda the default “standard.” Anyway, he gave me such a bro-deal on the thing that I’m in no position to complain. So, my question: I need to glass the brd and I want to make it as strong and ‘bomber’ as possible. Not too concerned about the weight issue - it’s a noserider after all! Plus, I plan on fishing for halibut, calicos, wsb, etc., from the board when the surf’s flat, and want some extra strength in the glass. I know, I should’ve gone Supergreen at least, if not Classic foam. Tell me about it. [smile] But given that it’s superblue, what to do? I originally was looking at Volan, maybe 8 oz top and bottom, with a deck patch on top of that. But from what I’ve been able to gather, volan [std 8 oz, at least] on superblue is not a good call because the heavy glass on light foam makes for poor bonding and therefore denting and delams, big time. So now I’m leaning toward a silane 6 oz on the bottom with a 6+4 on the deck, and a diamond knee patch on top of that. I’d like to go heavier, maybe 7.5 silane on bottom with 6+6 on deck and patch on top of that. In fact, I’d love an 8 oz volan deck patch on top of maybe 6+4 silane. Have any of you experimented with heavier glass than “recommended” on a superblue, and if so, with what results? What do the veteran glassers among you think?? Though it’s a superblue, it’s only very slightly skinned, so that should help. Anyway, sorry for the long post, but thanks in advance for your help! [I think it’s supposed to translate into good juju on your end. [smile] ] -Coop

Have it glassed in epoxy with multilayer 4 oz., say 3x4 on the bottom and top plus deck patch. Yep, you can glass Clark with Epoxy. Tom S.

Hey Coop, Michel Junod just finished a 9’5"x22.5"x 2.875" custom for me. We used Greg Loerh’s Resin Research Epoxy and wrapped the board with double 6oz. The board was shaped from a Clark super green blank. The weight turned out just as I had hoped. A little lighter than a volan glass job and very close the what I would have expected from a double 6oz top and a single 6oz bottom. You may want to consider the same schedule if you go with epoxy. If you go with poly you’ll probably want to go with a volan glass job to beef up the board strength. Mahalo, Rich

Thanks Tom and Rich, I guess I didn’t even think about epoxy as an option, but will now look into it, for sure. If you don’t mind a couple more q’s: Can the epoxy resin accomodate the fancy orange/yellow resin tint I was hoping to have on the bottom and rails? Rich: If I go poly instead, you don’t think that going all volan will cause me any dent/delam problems on that lighter, superblue, foam? What about this new DHP resin - have you guys tried that? Thanks again! -Coop

Coop, Why not tape the rails off and spray the board with water base acrylic the color you want. It’ll look just fine and that way you can concentrate on getting you layups just right and the color will already be there. If you put resin tint in epoxy it will slow curing time down, depending on how much you put in. I’ve always though yellow was a grand color for surfboards. I have a couple that color. When I comes to delams I wouldn’t think that it would be a great problem with the volan job because polyester keeps the dent where you put it and a double 8oz. deck wont dent very much anyway. Epoxy has a memory however so it will delaminate but you going to have to give it a heck of a shot if you use a double 6oz. schedule. DHP resin is only for someone willing to spend a lot of time and money setting up to use it. Mahalo, Rich

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The acid splash or most any resin tint type lam can be done but I agree with the acrylic suggestion as first choice. Concentrate on a quality lamination and reserve the more complicated process for later stages of the learning curve. If you do go at it full speed with epoxy you need to test whatever effect you are shooting for first with the same foam, epoxy, pigments and cloth you intend to use on the finished product. Epoxy and Polyester pigment jobs do have varitions, I believe are due to the different viscosity of the resins. The swirls and splashes I’ve done with epoxy are best done as a single layer, say 4 oz. cloth, inlaid on the bottom. Taped and cut and allowed to dry. Next apply full clear lam over this as though it were a cloth inlay. Good luck. Tom S.

Thanks Tom. I’m actually gonna farm this glass job out to a “pro” - as I don’t really have the knowhow, the tools, the inclination, … , to take on the job myself. I’m no glasser. Though the more time I spend on this brd, the more I’m thinking about building my own brd - at least at some point. Of course, I’ll ask the glasser I go with what he thinks about the max optimal glass weight, but was just hoping to get some input from the crowd here re how heavy a glass job i can get away with on the superblue blank. I’ll definitely ask about about epoxy options now, and will keep the color/graphics factor as a peripheral concern, for sure. Thanks again though, for the good advice. -Coop