Need some advice. I’m trying to figure out how to get the large build up of glass around base of my fins to get that sloped look. When I glass on a fin I tac it in place with epoxy…fin rope both sides and glass up 3 layers of 6oz. My fins hold fine… no cracks or complaints…but I like the old school look…How do I do it.
Thanks in advance for all the help you give…it makes a big difference to us new guys…
Dave
add more roving
come on,, thats simple
come on Ken…dont do me like that.
I’m sure its simple…but I’m pretty stupid…ask my wife.
How does an expert like yourself do it?
thanks
dg
Hi dg -
Love those boards!
I'm no expert but I think you're on the right track with 3 X 6oz. That's only the start... I build up as much as 15 short pieces on each side. I cut the pieces from scrap cloth and try to approximate a 45 degree angle to the weave - on the bias.
A problem you're likely going to have with epoxy is a ghostly appearance to the build up over the wood. Keep the pieces short. They don't have to extend very far up the fin or out towards the rails. Maybe the first few pieces to the top of the fin and out to the rails but after that, just fill in the joint.
When you get to the grinding part, steer clear of the joint. Once you get the edges feathered, just hit the joint with coarse sandpaper by hand.
For those who think this might be overkill, never mind. Do it your own way.
This is good advice.
Thanks John…yes the cloudiness would be a big issue…it makes it look like you messed up on something. I’ve only used epoxy for my wood boards…seems like thats what most people suggested to use with the wood.
dg
gallager - you can glass your fin on with polyester resin if you do a poly gloss coat
i just did this on a wood skinned board:
1. glass and hotcoat with epoxy
2. sand board with 100 grit. put some 40 or 60 on a hard block and rough up the finish to give the polyester a good grip.
3. glass on fins. i like to do cloth right up against the fin then roving over that (so if you sand into the fillet you are sanding into the roving not the cloth) and then a cloth patch at the base to cover the roving - this alows you to shape the roving a bit better.
4. tape off the tail area and hotcoat the fins and surrounding tail area.
5. sand the fins and hotcoated area. leave the tape on so you can knock down the ridge without sanding into the adjacent areas that are not hotcoated. i have a hard block that i grinded a radius into - this makes it easy to get the curve you want when you sand the base of the fin.
6. gloss the whole board and finish. dont burn through the gloss coat cuz the epoxy finishes out differently than the polyester with the same grit/polish!
a lot of good tips from the other guys. more material (cloth and rovings) at the base and feather the edges.
also, your boards look AMAZING!
if you do all this and realize your fillet is still not large enough, do like ken said and put a bunch of strands of rope together and lay it on there super thick and grind it down to where you want it, then throw a cloth patch over it to keep it in place.
Like some one said; "more roving". ie. More Rope at the base. Tried, true and simple. Not more layers of cloth. If you want a glass bead use rope.
Howzit gallagher, So far you have been given 2 choices to try and both are good ones. If I was you I would try both ( not on the same board of course and figure which suits you best. I have always used more roving( rope) but the extra glass sounds like a good idea. Give them both a try and hat ever one seems to work best for you is the one to use. These are those little things that need to be addressed when building boards and I am sure you will find your way through this one. Aloha,Kokua
Thanks Guys,
Here is my plan…
1. Tac on fin with quick set epoxy
2. Lay down 4 fin ropes on each side ( is that enough)
3. Lay down 2 layers of 6oz and try to mold the slope.
4. Sand then hot coat.
that sound about right!
though of adding the extra rope after the glass has set…maybe on the next.
this is the board…i’ll post pics as I do it.
at this point you need to find a good POLY glasser to do your fins. Nice wood work needs nice clear glassing....poly.
For all the backyard hacks Like me doing epoxy....keep in mind that your epoxy glass on fins will never look as clean as poly....
I'm doing some really nice stuff with epoxy and I'm screwing up some really nice stuff with epoxy. You cannot get the fin rope 100% clear with epoxy....work it...live and learn...
I've read through the whole thread, and no one has said this yet, so I'll go ahead and say it. Why in the world do you want to add the unsightly fillet buildup? If your fins are strong, then my thinking is, if it ain't broke don't fix it. The fillet adds nothing to performance, and in fact, I suspect is probably a detraction. I think it looks ugly. I mean, it looks ok on the boards that have it, but it looks like its there to add strength, not for looks, and if you have a system that is plenty strong without the big gusset, then count your blessings and don't worry about it. Just my opinion.
BTW, did you see this ultra cool fin attachment method? No gusset required! (thanks Wood Ogre)
also stagger the fin rope and glass. meaning: lay down rope, then glass over, then put more rope, then glass. Each glass patch slightly bigger then the last so sanding isnt a nightmare. That will build a huge hunking blob in your fin crack
If that fillet isn't enough, repeat.
[quote="$1"]
''The fillet adds nothing to performance, and in fact, I suspect is probably a detraction.''
[/quote]
Correct. (adds increased drag)
Been watching this and once again to me its amateur hour. Reverb is correct add more rope or roving, and make sure it is good quality, and with warm epoxy, without additive f, you will achieve the results you desire. Putting fins on with polyester over epoxy is a recipe for disaster, if you plan on surfing the board. When you let the resin warm the bubbles come up and out of the mix and by being careful and skillful you can minimize and eliminate bubbles in base and fillets. The more bubbles you add initially, the harder they are to get out, and additive f makes it look more cloudy. The other benefit of working with warm epoxy is the resin doesn’t drain out the tails, because it is closer to setting. Experience trumps theory…
[quote="$1"]
Been watching this and once again to me its amateur hour. [/quote]
Yeah, but isn't that the point? A place us amateurs can come to ask dumb questions, and be taken seriously enough to get a straight answer. One reason the pro's like yourself or Thrailkill or SurfDing, et al, are appreciated for the experience they bring to the forum.
Stingray: I glass myself so save $ and make my boards for a reasonable price. Like what I’ve read from Thrilla’s other posts…do it your self and learn inn’t that the point?
ghettorat…amateur hour? Brother I’m one step below an amateur…so thank you for the compliment 
Resinhead: Staggering…dam!.. I should have done that! Layed it up yesterday…sand and hot coat today…I’ll post the pic’s when I’m done.
Thanks for all your advice!
dg
