More roving…pile it on if you want fat fillets. Slap the bundles of strands against the [clean] edge of a table or the board to soften up the roving, it’ll absorb resin easier and less air bubbles.
my. 02
~Brian
More roving…pile it on if you want fat fillets. Slap the bundles of strands against the [clean] edge of a table or the board to soften up the roving, it’ll absorb resin easier and less air bubbles.
my. 02
~Brian
Greenlight adds some technique here, you want to soften the glass by beating it as he said then work out the split ends before they become goobers when wet, because they trap air and make it look cloudy. Then comb them out with your fingers, before wetting out. Those are the kind of things that people that know can add, because nobody wants excuses. Technique is important and the wrong way looks like crap, and even worse with epoxy. Study that picture already posted, and try to see yourself doing it. Hey Gallagher, the board looks bitchen in the pictures, so don’t take what I said as other than as a direct no BS answer to your question. If anyone’s ego gets pinched- well consider it a reality check.
Ok,but if the check bounces I’m coming after ya!!
Love me or hate me I really don't care.....I'm a backyard guy.....You have a web page. You sell surfboards.....
Why are you asking Swaylock's how to glass on a fin?
As a pro...with a web page...you should be teaching us how to glass on a fin..........Right?
Hi gallagher714 -
Nice effect with the knot in the fin panel. I think it looks great.
Stingray…I dont hate you or love you…its all cool brother. Like i’ve said multiple times…I’m a Garage/backyard Hack…I’ve never claimed to be anything more. A friend talked me into the web site… because he owns an internet company and built my page for next to nothing. I’m working on #20 right now, so i’m still way new to board building. I have never worked in a surf shop or around shapers ever…so everything i’ve done is from research, questioning or just making it happen. I look at sways all the time to get new ideas or inspiration from what some else has already done…guess its just in an effort to get better, or maybe just to confirm what i’m doing is right…thats why I ask the questions i do.
dg
this is where all the magic HAPPENS!
hi . on glassing 101 they use 7 rovings per side for short board thrusters, my boss uses 7 an d then about 10 for single fins as they r larger drains them well though. in metal work the fillet strengthens the join between 90 degree joins. wouldn’t it do the same with a fin? a little drag for increased strength is a good sacrifice.
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''... a little drag for increased strength is a good sacrifice. ''
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No, it is not. In 1960 I abandoned the use of roving in favor of multi layers of bias cut glass cloth. The result was that I NEVER broke or cracked a fin after that. Nor did anyone I made a board for. The best way is not always the fastest or easiest way. Roving use is more of a production technique. Fast, but inferior.
“bias cut cloth”…can you explain?
…hello Bill,
you are right but with shortboards (up to 6 2) + radical maneuvers + very light boards I see that putting super stronger fins generate major repairs
I mean, I see in daily basis (regarding the boards I m saying) that after a slash back on the falling lip, etc the guys fall onto the fins and if the fins are super strong, its not broke BUT they remain crooked…so, the repair will be very difficult and normally lot of foam is damaged due to the impact on those very thin tails
in the other way, the possible repair is not so deep.
yes, with stronger laminations on big boards or boards that intended to ride “forever”, could be desirable
—Gallagher,
is putting several sheets at different angles
like 45º - 90º and other at 45º - 90 from previous, etc
[quote="$1"]
"bias cut cloth"...can you explain?
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The weave pattern would be 45/45 degrees, as opposed to 0/90 degrees. Think of it as an ''X'' pattern to the weave.
and by doing the “X” you dont need the fin rope?
[quote="$1"]
and by doing the "X" you dont need the fin rope?
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That is correct.
amateur hour…you can see bubbles in these but they will not come off thats for sure!!!
gallager your fin and board are really something to look at - amazing work - still you need to use more glass at the base and more roving (try at least 10 and possibly up to 20 strands on each side) to get what you are after. the glass adds the strength - the roving justs adds shape for the most part.
how many layers of bias cut cloth do u need to put on the sides of the fin? do u sand the little ramps at the back and front of the fin with this method or do the glass ons turn out looking like fin systems fins?
Hello Gallagher,
Once again I opened my mouth and stuck my foot into it. I wear steel toed boots...ouch.
Nice photo.....Nice fin install....looks like you have "Lab".....keep up the good work.....
Stingray