Glassing and Fin Boxes (Pictures)

So I’ve finally finished shaping my board and am getting ready to glass. Before I do though, a few questions.

First: Which is easier or would be better for a first time glasser - installing future fin boxes before or after lamination? Any tips that make it easy?

Second: Which would make my board more durable- 2x6oz. for bottom and 4x6oz. for top or 3x6oz. for the bottom and 3x6oz. for top?

Third: isn’t she beautiful?

Made totally from scratch. Not even a blank! I have a right to be proud, first ever board.

I guess It depends on the density of the foam somewhat. I had 2lb eps and I used 2X6 0z on the deck and single 6 oz on the bottom. I didn’t seal it so that might be a factor. But my board is much stronger than standard poly. It is not indestructible but I don’t worry about little mishaps with railings and and car doors.

Yes she looks nice. Curious to know her thickness considering the fresh water factor.

your glassing schedule will depend first on the density of the foam, second on your weight, third on the type of waves you intend to surf.

you said nothing about any of these … so I’ll say nothing about the glass job.

Hey all. Thanks for the replies. Here is the pertinent information:

My foam is standard beadboard, I believe that is #1 EPS.

I weigh (this is a very close guesstimate as the last time I weighed myself was a year ago at a friends house) 200 pounds.

The waves I intend to surf are typical great lake stuff. Small 2 foot slush up to hollow headhigh (which is 6’4").

Hey Keen, the thickness is 2 3/4" and then, since it is a V hull, tapers out to 2 1/4. I can’t say I really took the freshwater into account.Hmm, perhaps I should have.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Anyone? Surely with all the expertise on the site someone can anwser.

I’ve never glassed 1lb. EPS but I did a 1.7 lb. I’d say for your size and the foam your going to have to seal the foam and probably install a vent. Since it’s your first you may not be too concerned about making it last forever, so I’d go full 6/6 bot. or 6/4 and full 6/6 with a 3/4 6 patch deck. Then again for all the glass and resin it seems that you have a perfect starter for a compsand.

For the futures go to their website and check out their installation video. They usually need to be installed before you glass. I also seal my blank with epoxy cabosil first then install the boxes, makes the blank less prone to dirt and scratches.

Also do a search under 1lb. eps or something similar. There is a bunch of info from those that went your route.

Good luck and have fun.

Thanks for the reply DMP. I’ve already checked out futures website, it’s just that I’m slightly apprehensive to install them before laminating since I believe I will end up with air bubbles around the boxes. As for installing them after the lamination then I don’t understand how I would get the boxes level with the deck? Are my concerns unfounded?

As well I must ask for clarification on your “so I’d go full 6/6 bot. or 6/4 and full 6/6 with a 3/4 6 patch deck.” What do you mean by 6/6?

I realize I must be sounding like an old dog but MORE INPUT would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

I’ve got a minute so I’ll try to help.

It would be nice if we knew the density of your foam, but regardless,

you’ll be better off doing a double 6 (read 6/6) bottom for your first side ever,

Trying to glass 3 layers on your first go is a little much, if the bottom goes ok

and you’re confident, go for 3 on the deck. Definitely install your futures in the

lam, much easier to route the foam rather than going through your glass job.

Epoxy has a long gel period, you shouldn’t have any trouble working the bubbles

out around the boxes.

Enjoy doing your first one! You’ll never forget it.

Mike

Quote:

Thanks for the reply DMP. I’ve already checked out futures website, it’s just that I’m slightly apprehensive to install them before laminating since I believe I will end up with air bubbles around the boxes. As for installing them after the lamination then I don’t understand how I would get the boxes level with the deck? Are my concerns unfounded?

As well I must ask for clarification on your “so I’d go full 6/6 bot. or 6/4 and full 6/6 with a 3/4 6 patch deck.” What do you mean by 6/6?

I realize I must be sounding like an old dog but MORE INPUT would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Yes read MikeDaniel’s post. By 6/6 I mean double 6 oz. deck. He is right about 3 layers even if one is a 3/4 patch. For sure use the slowest setting epoxy hardener that you can for your first go around unless your glassing in cooler weather (less than 68 degrees F). I use 50 minute hardener and it’s perfect for my skill level but if it gets too warm I have to rush.

You definately do not want to install futures after glassing. I use Fiberglass Hawaii 30 sec. quick set epoxy to do the boxes. You have to be careful to not melt the foam when installing boxes in EPS. The Fiberglass Hawaii stuff goes off so fast that it doesn’t have time to get hot enough to melt the foam. It goes off so fast though that I can only do 1 box at a time. For me 1 box takes approx. .9 oz of resin and hardener. I use a digital scale so small amounts aren’t a problem. The upside is I can do my boxes and leash plug in 15 minutes and then go straight to glassing.

I pull the glass back and baste the boxes with resin before I glass to minimize air bubbles. You can also take a razor blade and slice the glass after doing the lam to release any trapped air.

Ahh, Futures. Nice system, but tricky in my opinion. Firstly before lamination. I’ve tried after and the edges of the fibreglass keep getting in the way of the box when I try to push them down into the hole.

Secondly, you have about 1mm past the end of the grub screw to lay your masking tape. Likewise for the back of the box opening. Take you masking tape down the ramp on either end and your asking for trouble. Sanding the masking tape out trouble that is. Check your depth of the routed Futures hole to make sure it is correct. Better still practice on a piece of old foam first. Once you’ve finished routing your hole, take a box, turn it upside down, and then place the flange part of the box into the hole. If the depth of the flange route is correct, the flange of the box should be a hair below the foam. Turning the box upside down and then checking, saves you from trying to have to fish the box out of the hole.

Thirdly, laminating over the box. Don’t forget your masking tape by the way. Let the resin kick and then cut three quarters of the way around the raised lip to allow the glass to sit flush. Otherwise the raised lip of the box will push the glass up. Work out all the air bubbles with your finger.

Lastly, sanding. The raised lip should be sanded flush with the board. Or at least as far as I’m aware. That way the masking tape comes out. Very nice first effort by the way.

Also if it interests you, I’ve switched from Futures to Speeedfins as they are much easier to install. Speeedfins boxes are quite similar to Proboxes in installation I believe. As I said at the beginning of the post, Futures are a nice system in my opinion. But tricky to install.

Thanks for the replies all. It helped. I will definitely install my boxes before lamination and plan on doing 6/6 for the bottom. If that goes well I’m going to tackle 6/6/6/6 for the top. The final result shall be known. Thanks again