Glassing lights?

I am going to start creating a glassing area on a friends property. Much has been written on the subject of proper lighting for shaping but what about glassing. In my limited experience I have never really found the best setup. It seems like I either have too much overhead light or not enough, which makes it difficult to see dry spots air bubbles, etc. My space will be 16’ long x 12’ wide (approx). I am thinking of flouresent lighting, for their low energy consumption, low heat, and the fact that when I do poly boards, I really like using UV resin. These lights won’t cause UV resin to kick prematurly? My question what is a good setup for lighting up the glassing area?

I am going to start creating a glassing area on a friends property. Much > has been written on the subject of proper lighting for shaping but what > about glassing. In my limited experience I have never really found the > best setup. It seems like I either have too much overhead light or not > enough, which makes it difficult to see dry spots air bubbles, etc.>>> My space will be 16’ long x 12’ wide (approx). I am thinking of flouresent > lighting, for their low energy consumption, low heat, and the fact that > when I do poly boards, I really like using UV resin. These lights won’t > cause UV resin to kick prematurly?>>> My question what is a good setup for lighting up the glassing area? … …My favorite set-up for glassing is single 8 footers(not the duelies) on the sides and overhead.I also like to run a 4 footer on a far wall to use as back lighting(like in autobody/Vet work) this one shouldbe about shoulder to just overhead and behind you/or infront.If you do this correctly you’ll see probably more than you want to see.Herb

…My favorite set-up for glassing is single 8 footers(not the > duelies) on the sides and overhead.I also like to run a 4 footer on a far > wall to use as back lighting(like in autobody/Vet work) this one shouldbe > about shoulder to just overhead and behind you/or infront.If you do this > correctly you’ll see probably more than you want to see.Herb The single 8’ lights on the sides, should they be about the same level as the rail line, or a little below, in order to illuminate (I learned that word in college!) the lap area? Thanks again for the info.

i have portable shaping lights. the only thing i can currently use. each housing has 2 bulbs. would i get more defined light if i switched to a single bulb?

The single 8’ lights on the sides, should they be about the same level as > the rail line, or a little below, in order to illuminate (I learned that > word in college!) the lap area? Thanks again for the info. …I like mine as close to the railline in height as possible.Herb

i have portable shaping lights. the only thing i can currently use. each > housing has 2 bulbs. would i get more defined light if i switched to a > single bulb? …just try with taking one bulb on each side out first.Herb

Hey Mike, If no UV resin used, I prefer the metal halide. My workstation previously was used for setting up a reef aquarium, there’s 10,000K metal halide hanging under the cabinet. Now I use it for the top lighting. I can see clearly what I have done on the top deck. Besides, it generates heat that helps the expoxy resin cured in 3-4 hours. But it costs about US$ 200.00 -300.00, this is the major drawback. Regards, Crabie