I use shellac to prime oily woods such as rosewood,purpleheart,cypress etc.It locks in the oils and dries super because it is alchohol based. RB
Try Additive F by Resin Research when applying an epoxy seal coat directly to wood. Additive F is Xylene based I believe with Greg Loehrs secret recipie of agents in it. It definitely decreases viscosity of the epoxy resin and improves saturation of the wood, but also improves hardness and sandability of the resin. The amounts used as a % of the resin is miniscule and I don’t see the trace xylene remaining as a delam risk. I am in the process of building a 12’ SUP hollow wood board in souhern red cedar, and will let you know how the epoxy seal/lamination goes with Additve F. All the kiln dried red cedar was cut into 1/4" planks and will have been in my hot florida garage/shop at 90-100 degrees for 3 - 4 weeks, so I expect the MC will be quite stable. I will only glass in the evening to assure dropping temperatures from upper 80s to around 80 during the kick and cure to avoid outgassing.
When I seal my wooden fins I use RR, and double the amount of add F, (like for glossing) the trick is to use very little resin only enough so it is absorbed into the wood and none left floating on the surface.
The last set I made I put on too much on, so wiped off all the resin with DNA and left it, the resin really penitrated the wood and sealed it really well, so from now on I’m going to continue to do it that way. Put on a coat of resin and wipe it off/in with dna.
I like the idea of adding colour, planning another wooden board and was thinking of ding a green tint with pen art on top. may do some test first to see if i get beeter results when atting the colour when sealing the wood or in the lam like a convensional tint.
Woody Waverider, your method will limit weight as well. I saw another post where the writer advocated applying resin until the whole surface retained a gloss. That method would add considerable weight and is unnecessary in just trying to ‘seal’ the wood for normal lamination. The more porous woods used in surfboard construction due to their light weight will also absorb allot of resin if you use the latter method. Gloss coat amounts of Additive F and minimal resin just to seal are the way to go. Right on target Woody.
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