My last three glass jobs have been well below average. First board I did a 6/6 deck and didn’t wet out my cloth enough. But everything from that point on went fine. So on the second and third boards I took a lot of time with the squeegee and really soaked out the cloth, but when I did my hot coats little divots and holes began to show on the top of the hot coat-which led me to believe that I took to much resin out of my lam coat and dryed out the cloth, leaving little pockets for the hot coat resin to sink into. Does this make any sense? And if it is my problem is there any way to aviod this problem without having a resin heavy lam job? Another thought that came to my mind, was that I finish screened my blanks with 100 grit- which may have allowed more resin to drain through glass and into the blank?? Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated-as I’m a bit nervous about persuing my next glass job. Thanks, Graham
My last three glass jobs have been well below average. First board I did > a 6/6 deck and didn’t wet out my cloth enough. But everything from that > point on went fine.>>> So on the second and third boards I took a lot of time with the squeegee > and really soaked out the cloth, but when I did my hot coats little divots > and holes began to show on the top of the hot coat-which led me to believe > that I took to much resin out of my lam coat and dryed out the cloth, > leaving little pockets for the hot coat resin to sink into. Does this make > any sense? And if it is my problem is there any way to aviod this problem > without having a resin heavy lam job? Another thought that came to my > mind, was that I finish screened my blanks with 100 grit- which may have > allowed more resin to drain through glass and into the blank?? Any > thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated-as I’m a bit nervous about > persuing my next glass job. Thanks, Graham …I always screen to 220 grit,maybe 320 followed-up with plain window screen to polish it out,After I finish the lam ,I go over it with 4 or 5 ozs of hot thinned out lam.Spread it out with a bondo blade ,and brush out the rails. …Learning how to squeege is a fineline art,once you get the hang of it,you’ll understand it better.Herb
My last three glass jobs have been well below average. First board I did > a 6/6 deck and didn’t wet out my cloth enough. But everything from that > point on went fine.>>> So on the second and third boards I took a lot of time with the squeegee > and really soaked out the cloth, but when I did my hot coats little divots > and holes began to show on the top of the hot coat-which led me to believe > that I took to much resin out of my lam coat and dryed out the cloth, > leaving little pockets for the hot coat resin to sink into. Does this make > any sense? And if it is my problem is there any way to aviod this problem > without having a resin heavy lam job? Another thought that came to my > mind, was that I finish screened my blanks with 100 grit- which may have > allowed more resin to drain through glass and into the blank?? Any > thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated-as I’m a bit nervous about > persuing my next glass job. Thanks, Graham No Worries Graham. When first starting out we all get those problems. First off, where are you getting the cloth? That is important. What kind of resin are you using? Now to answer your other questions. The divits in the resin sounds like “fish eyes”. Fish eyes are caused by dust particals landing on the board and the resin seperates from the partical. Make sure the surface of the board is clean as well. Finishing sanding your board with 100 grit would make the resin stick to the blank better but leave it with a unfinished look, and maybe a little heavier. Try finish sanding up to 220. This will make it look smoother and cleaner, maybe little lighter. Another thing is don’t give up, keep goin
My last three glass jobs have been well below average. First board I did > a 6/6 deck and didn’t wet out my cloth enough. But everything from that > point on went fine.>>> So on the second and third boards I took a lot of time with the squeegee > and really soaked out the cloth, but when I did my hot coats little divots > and holes began to show on the top of the hot coat-which led me to believe > that I took to much resin out of my lam coat and dryed out the cloth, > leaving little pockets for the hot coat resin to sink into. Does this make > any sense? And if it is my problem is there any way to aviod this problem > without having a resin heavy lam job? Another thought that came to my > mind, was that I finish screened my blanks with 100 grit- which may have > allowed more resin to drain through glass and into the blank?? Any > thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated-as I’m a bit nervous about > persuing my next glass job. Thanks, Graham There’s a good chance the pin air and divots will sand out, if not you can rehot coat and sand again. The pin air might be caused by the brushing. I get them but they sand out,never had the divot effect and that probably due to some oil from your hands when handleing the board. Aloha, Kokua
There’s a good chance the pin air and divots will sand out, if not you can > rehot coat and sand again. The pin air might be caused by the brushing. I > get them but they sand out,never had the divot effect and that probably > due to some oil from your hands when handleing the board. Aloha, Kokua I have a question about your problem. Are the pin air holes along the stringer? I have seen this on a few board and was told that it was because the wood was not dry. I don’t know just a thought.
mine would do it along the stringer sometimes. but i think it was when the resin would hit the wood it would soak it into the board creating a dry spot. i dunno just a guess.
mine would do it along the stringer sometimes. but i think it was when the > resin would hit the wood it would soak it into the board creating a dry > spot. i dunno just a guess. My pin holes were on pritty much the entire board-not just the stringer. As for the ?'s asked by ESsurboards-I was using glass from a local board builder and fresh surfboard resin from a local surfshop. And don’t worry, I don’t plan on giving up, but it’s a bit discouraging to have an ugly looking board for all the work I put into it-but its all a learning process and I’m still stoked. And thanks to Herb for the tip-I’ll be sure and try it. Thanks, Graham
mine would do it along the stringer sometimes. but i think it was when the > resin would hit the wood it would soak it into the board creating a dry > spot. i dunno just a guess. If the stringer is below the level of the foam it can cause air bubbles. As a precaution I make a final pass with the squeegee along the stringer and over the lams.This should eleminate the pin air, too much resin or not enough resin causes the air. It’s like Herb said,squeegeeing is an art and it takes time to perfect it. Aloha, Kokua
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