When you glass a board I’ve heard one person mention that it should be done in a v shape. Can anyone confirm if this is the case and if the picture below is also correct? Lastly I’ve seen one picture of a glasser working the cloth with his hands before actually glassing the board. Does anyone know if this is to set up the glass for wrapping (like defining the tuck edges) before using the squeegee? If it is, is it a good way to be doing things?
Haven’t you watched some glassing videos? Get thee on over to Youtube.
Generally the short version is: one first pours resin along the stringer, then works it out to either side. If you mixed a shitload of resin, it will spread out and wet the rails without much further effort. And most of it will end up on the floor. If you didn’t mix that much resin, there are other ways to wet the lap. Then you fold over the laps and squeegee them to the rails, top and bottom. Last, squeegee everything out to uniform thickness and texture.
Never heard of this “V” or “X” deal. There’s good and plenty reason to do as above, which you will realize. It’s that other procedures distort the glass and cause big folds where you don’t want 'em.
Alright then,
for my second question can someone tell me why Jack Reeves was rubbing his hand over this board? And what was Graham Jahalkas technique?
Well yuo would smooth out the glass before cutting the excess hanging cloth rounf the rails and again after and give it a little pull at the nose and tail to make sure its snug flat against the blank with no rucks or creases.
I that picture (what a nice board) can’t really let from the picture but I would guess the under side of the board has already been glassed and he is feeling the lap line to make sure its nice and smooth with no lumps, bumps or strings left before laying down the cloth of the next side, or he could just be appriciating his handy work ; )
I could be wrong, but I believe he is rubbing down the board before he hot coats, it gets of excess dust and sanded lam resin before you hot coat. Lint free cloths work well, but some say your hands are just as good.
Tony
he’s just giving it the once over before the next step…feelin her up out of habit to make sure its all flat and tight.
I think you are right here Tony
It appears to me that the board has been lammed already and he is prepping for the hot coat.
Of course I have done no where near as many boards as he has, or as most of you have for that matter,
But I do this in prep for the hot coat looking for any spots that might need to be knocked back a little more
and to clear off any dust I may have missed.
But maybe that’s just me.
Just my 1.874 cents
I’ve never heard of the V or X pattern either. Honolulu is right on. The only other advice i could give is always work from the center of the board out toward the nose/tail and from the stringer to the rails. This will help the resin stay more even and ensure that the cloth stays “light and tight”
What about oils off the bare hands? That’s something I’ve always been warned about and tried to avoid…
Hey there cberry
Well, for me, I always give my hands a thorough washing before I start working.(learned that the hard way)
If you are really worried, you can powder your hands and then wipe them with a damp towel.
I like to “feel” the board every step of the way.
But like I said…maybe it’s just me.
I learned this the hard way -
If you pull too hard with the squeege, and stretch the glass while removing the excess
resin, in a minute or two it will creep back, and cause all kinds of little wrinkles.
Carbon fiber is the worst for this. 2 oz is the second worst for wrinlking up.
So i don’t think the x pattern is necessarily good or bad if done lightly, but the
problem could come from dragging the glass.
So i don't think the x pattern is necessarily good or bad if done lightly, but the problem could come from dragging the glass.
Totally agree. I find tensioning (or straining) to be more of a feel than anything. I think I may have mistaken the vee shaped pattern for the curving of the cloth around the board as well. Fibreglass cloth is two dimensional, not three…