I have had two boards that when they got a pressure ding right on the pinlines the gloss chipped off carry away some of the pinline. Am I sanding to high of a grit before I pinline? I started sanding to 400 right where the pinlines go to avoid the posca bleeding underneath the tape in scratch marks but I think this might be to high and be the cause of the chips? Any ideas?
With resin pinstripes, most agree 220 is best, 320 if you use new paper, in direction of the line.
Then you sand the line itself with 400, lightly, but thoroughly
LeeDD,
What about posca pinlines?
I just like to read the crap I post.
I have no idea, as posca pens weren’t around in 1974.
Howzit Gregg, There is a ton of info on pinlines, pigment,Posca, ZigPens,etc. in the archives. Aloha,Kokua
Sand to 220, use automotive pinstripe tape for masking both sides of the line (not masking tape - special 3M stuff), use black acrylic on an artist brush and paint the line segment back in. Pull off the tape immediately after painting. The ink viscosity in poscas is thin, and it will bleed into sanding scratches and the coverage isn’t as good as paint. Also, using them on masked lines is tricky. Regardless of the tape used and the smoothness of the surface, some bleeding occurs. This is because you’re dragging a relatively hard felt tip against the edge of the tape and the thin ink will creep under. It takes just the right amount of pressure on the pen to get it right. It’s a lot easier to brush or airbrush paint for pinlines and you don’t have to sand the area more than the usual 180- 220 prior to glossing.
Sorry to bump an old thread, but you never know who needs new information…
I’d been using these Aervoe gloss acrylic rattle cans to gloss epoxy. It works fine, but takes a lot of cans.
Finally noticed that FGH sells the same stuff in a 1-gallon (d’oh!) and you can brush it on. No mixing, no nasty 2-pac, no spraying necessary. It’s basically Futures Floor Polish that met up with Barry Bonds’ trainer & chemist. 
So I decided to go ahead & test it on some pinline materials just in case there were any unforseen incompatibility issues.
Left to right, in case its hard to read, are:
Sharpie, Posca, Liquitex acrylic (right out of the tube like Rich Harbour), tinted poly sanding resin, and tinted poly lam resin.
Its fine with everything but the sharpie. The liquitex looks like there was a problem, but that was just the way my fingertip left it on the test panel, not anything the Aervoe did to it.I brushed enough on each test blob to see if there would be any separation or chipping on top of the color, as well as any dissolution of the color itself. I didn’t sand any of the test spots prior to painting on the acrylic.
So I went ahead & used it. 2 coats each side on a 10’2 longboard and I’ve used about 1/6th of the gallon. the gallon cost about $40. I’d say I’m pretty happy with that on all counts…
Photos later when I get back home
How’s the finish when the Aervoe is brushed on? does it need any wetsanding/polishing afterwards, or on the tapeline?
JSS
I didn’t tape the rail when I did the bottom (first) and I brushed a little fast & a few (maybe 20, pinhead-size) air bubbles stayed. When I flipped it, I scraped off the drips that came around to the deck with a razor blade, taped the rail, and brushed slower - mirror shine. It self-levels very well. My shop was around 61* f with a space heater going. I pulled the tape when it was gelling & ran around the line with my finger. Probably not up to Moonlight glassing or Kokua Fiberglass standards, but fine for my eye. 
I’m going to go after the bottom with some polishing compound & see what happens. I might have to do another coat. Its a good finish, though, looks wet.
Thanks Ben, that’s some great info. Let us know how it polishes up. It sounds like a great alternative to brush-on 2pac polyurethanes, that run around $120-$150 a gallon…
JSS
Howzit Benny, FGH also sells acrylic sealer for about $ 18 a gallon that you can also rub out to a gloss finish. The stuff you bought is probably a newer product. I used the sealer a lot and found it to work just fine and at less than half the price.Aloha,Kokua
You’re the man, Kokua. I logged on to edit my post anyway because I checked my receipt - it was only $21 (gallon) for me. I bet we’re talking about the same stuff.
Even retail should be less than $30. And 4-5 boards (long) should be very easy to get out of a gallon of the stuff…
Howzit Benny, I put 3 coats on each side of the board and as you know you have to let each coat completely dry before putting next coat on. For sanded finishes after coating you can use a green rice pot scrubber glued to a ferro pad to knock down the finish and it makes for a very fast finish. Originally it was sold as a water based acrylic paint thinner,then as a sealer but it’s all the same stuff no matter what it’s called. I use a sponge to apply it.Aloha,Kokua
…hello Kokua,
why dont you use an air compressor to apply the clear?
Benny1
the acrylic sealer in no way is better than the resin to do a gloss finish
the answer to the first post is that chipping occurs because the Hcoat under was not totally sanded; so the gloss resin didnt have a good (wax free) surface to properly stick on…
the sealer is super good if you do a speed finish
and the best is Glasurit 93257
Howzit reverb, I have sprayed it but during the time the acrylic is drying on the board it is also drying in the spray rig and once it drys you have to use acetone to cut it or your sprayer gets clogged and it is just easier to use a sponge instead of cleaning the sprayer. Had a friend who sprayed it and didn't realize how much was building up in the spray rig until the sprayer wouldn't work any more,I ended up cleaning it for him and after that he started using a sponge also. Different strokes for different folks. If you do spray it then as soon as you do a coat empty your sprayer and run water through it.Doing this just takes to much time between coats. Aloha,Kokua