Just finished hot-coating a 7’6" mini-mal-type. Although I have done sanded finishes before, I’m now considering doing a gloss coat for this board.
I have heard there is gloss-coat-specific resin, but are there other alternatives? i.e. just doing an additional “thin” hot coat with more MEKP and SA (wax)
I will do the following up until I decide to apply a gloss coat:
-Sand with progessively higher grit sand paper (from 100->220->320->420…), until I acheive the desired results.
Now at this point, I guess I’m asking for gloss coat options and a “how-to” scenario or can I continue “buffing” the regular hot-coat until I’m ready to polish with a buffing pad?
Any input will be appreciated…
Best to use gloss resin,but hotcoat resin will work.Herb
You can buff out your hotcoat after sanding, and it will get mirror shiny (as long as you dont go into the weave)but most likely there will be some weave showing at least around the rails so you will have a splotchy shine unless you are really good. If you decide to put a gloss coat on, you can stop sanding the hot coat after the 100 grit (but fine sand the pinline area if you are putting one on) and you can just use thinned out hot coat resin. There is tons of info in the archives about this and this new format makes it even easier to find the info you are looking for.
Like the guys said you can cheat by making your own gloss resin if you have to.My only thought here is that sanding to 420 maybe too fine causing the gloss to separate.I usually sand no finer than 180.Not saying it won’t work but better safe than sorry.
I’d think how fine you sand has a lot to do with the buffing compound and system you’re using. With, f’rinstance, some of the 3M stuff I have used in the past ( Marine Finesse-It paste and Imperial Microfinishing liquid polishes) , I’d go down to a 300 or 400 wet/dry sanding and then go with the buffer, though there’s others which I understand don’t need nearly this much sanding nor as fine.
What setup and compounds are you guys using?
Howdy Doc.When I spoke of sanding to 180 ,that was referring to surface before brushing on a gloss coat.As for polishing I found out that “Sureluster” from the Surf Suppilers beats anything I have found.I have used the 3m and Maquires in all the different grits but Sureluster is what most of the Pro’s use.When polishing I dry sand with a soft pad starting at 320 on up to 500.I only use water when hand sanding the rails.Polishing is a bear…I went round and round until I went down to Spectrum Surfboards in Melbourne Fla. and bribed the polisher for a lesson.By the way thanks to “Beef…The KIng of Shine” a true craftsman.
Many thanks - and that was an obvious misunderstanding on my part regarding the sanding, looking back now it’s obvious… memo to self, have the second cuppa coffee before firing up the computer.
Howzit Doc, I agree with Mr. Clean that Shurlustre is the best. One thing I find that makes for a beautiful finish is to crank up the rpms on your polisher as you are finishing up your sanding with 400 and 600. As the paper wears it becomes like a polisher and really smoothes things out. Aloha, Kokua
I just did a gloss job, without using specific gloss resin. Just added a touch more styrene to the hot coat. I removed the dimples with a razor, then sanded with 200, 400 and 600, dry then wet. Finally I used some cheapo car cutting/buffing compound ($5), and it all came out beautiful. Very smooth, very shiny, no weave showing.
I used no powertools (not because I’m virtuous or purist - just didn’t have a sander/polisher), but it didn’t take long, maybe 2 hours in total.