Howdy, I’m getting ready to lay down my first gloss-coat, a few questions… With removable fins, do you install before or after the gloss-coat. I can see pros and cons to both ways, I’d imagine it’s preference. How much do you sand your sanding coat… just the big stuff (60-80) or take it all the way like a sanded hotcoat. Of course a 300 grit finish is going to provide a nice base for a gloss, but is it necessary? …I don’t have a power sander, just my arm and a little finishing sander… Thanks
i’d say install the fin system after the hotcoat. just make sure you lay the tape down nice and even over the plugs, or slots. and it is necessary to pull the tape at the right time when the resin begins to set. just before it gels, or you will get jagged edges. the hotcoat can be sanded to 220, or 180. i have read that if the hotcoat is sanded too fine before glossing, and the gloss might not bond as well. check the archives…these are just my ideas
i’d say install the fin system after the hotcoat. just make sure you lay > the tape down nice and even over the plugs, or slots. and it is necessary > to pull the tape at the right time when the resin begins to set. just > before it gels, or you will get jagged edges. the hotcoat can be sanded to > 220, or 180. i have read that if the hotcoat is sanded too fine before > glossing, and the gloss might not bond as well. check the archives…these > are just my ideas You should pull the tape when the resin sheets below the tape but before it kicks. If you install a FCS fin system, tape off the plugs, center a quarter on the plug and cut around it with a razor blade instead of doing it freehand. make sure the slot is covered though,resin in the plug is a no no.
sand hotcoat to 80 or 120. put in fin stuffs. 4oz. glass over fin boxes doesnt hurt but requires grinding a little divit in the hotcoat for the glass to sit. grind flush with hotcoat. tape and gloss. sand and polish till you hate sanding and polishing.
You should pull the tape when the resin sheets below the tape but before > it kicks. If you install a FCS fin system, tape off the plugs, center a > quarter on the plug and cut around it with a razor blade instead of doing > it freehand. make sure the slot is covered though,resin in the plug is a > no no. I have found that when polishing I can leave the tape on until the last.The heat of the buff pad makes it easy to pull the tape and keeps compound out of the slots…Kokuas way may be safer though…R.B.
I have found that when polishing I can leave the tape on until the > last.The heat of the buff pad makes it easy to pull the tape and keeps > compound out of the slots…Kokuas way may be safer though…R.B. …If for any reason you should glass over your taped boxes,be it a repair or a general strengthing deal,score or cut the glass around the tape with a razorblade after you lam over the taped boxes(after it’s gone off,but not solid yet,like a lap cut,guys).Then just hotcoat,and sand.The cirles will pop-out clean,no cutting. You can also do this if you just gloss or hotcoat over your taped boxes,try it…you’ll like it,forsure.Herb
I have found that when polishing I can leave the tape on until the > last.The heat of the buff pad makes it easy to pull the tape and keeps > compound out of the slots…Kokuas way may be safer though…R.B. Howzit Mr. Clean, I meant the rail tape off, I always leave the plugs and fin box tape on til I’m done for the same reasons you leave it on. Another note I just shot 2 glosses and decided to try tossing in a little S.A., works great. I’ve done them without for forever and they always come out A- or A but these 2 came out A+. Just goes to show us old dogs can learn new tricks, just gotta try them. Now do I tell my competetors about it, sure why not.Aloha, Kokua
Howzit Mr. Clean, I meant the rail tape off, I always leave the plugs and > fin box tape on til I’m done for the same reasons you leave it on. Another > note I just shot 2 glosses and decided to try tossing in a little S.A., > works great. I’ve done them without for forever and they always come out > A- or A but these 2 came out A+. Just goes to show us old dogs can learn > new tricks, just gotta try them. Now do I tell my competetors about it, > sure why not.Aloha, Kokua Kokua are you using Silmar or Reichold?I had some silmar and adding wax SA seemed to help.After all these years I still get a kick out of playing with jelled resin that curtains on the tape off.Sometimes I string em up like a clothesline…you know art or something like that…or dickin around…R.B.
Kokua are you using Silmar or Reichold?I had some silmar and adding wax SA > seemed to help.After all these years I still get a kick out of playing > with jelled resin that curtains on the tape off.Sometimes I string em up > like a clothesline…you know art or something like that…or dickin > around…R.B. Howzit Mr. Clean, I use reichold resin for my glosses. I know what you mean about playing with the curtain resin, gives us something to do while waiting for resin to kick. A close resinhead friend stacks the plastic ends from the glass rolls then drips pigmented resin over them and makes lamps. Kinda tacky but they are unique. Aloha, Kokua
Howzit Mr. Clean, I use reichold resin for my glosses. I know what you > mean about playing with the curtain resin, gives us something to do while > waiting for resin to kick. A close resinhead friend stacks the plastic > ends from the glass rolls then drips pigmented resin over them and makes > lamps. Kinda tacky but they are unique. Aloha, Kokua Speaking of lamps…a hot subject today…se my post on “fiberglass accessories”.,Ideas??
how much (%) of s/a did you add? doesn’t gloss resin already have s/a?
how much (%) of s/a did you add? doesn’t gloss resin already have s/a? Howzit Teddy, Yes glossing resin does already have S/A in it. As far as % goes I just gave it a squirt(probably about 15-20 cc’s. I tend to do measuring by eye except when it comes to catalyst in lay-ups and styrene in gloss resin. After a while you just get a feel for it. Aloha, Kokua
are c/c’s pretty accurate with ml’s. that’s how i measure. 15cc’s = 15 ml’s??
are c/c’s pretty accurate with ml’s. that’s how i measure. 15cc’s = 15 > ml’s?? Yes 15CC=15mls http://lancecarson.com
are c/c’s pretty accurate with ml’s. that’s how i measure. 15cc’s = 15 > ml’s?? A liter’s official definition is the “cubic decimeter”… in actuallity it’s slightly off, there was some squable amongst scientists in the early 1900’s on the actual definition, so it was agreed apon that the cubic meter (or fraction thereof) is the offical meteric unit of volume - not the liter. To get to the point, a ml is exactly a cc…