I am using Reichold Gloss resin from Atlantic Surfing Materials and it is very slow to kick. The color is a light pink which (to me looks like SImar). I have been out of the loop for a few years and wondered if there has been a change in the resin formula. Seems to me like it used to be darker red and almost purple. It kicked a lot faster. Maybe due to more cobalt? Has anybody noticed this?? Brad what color is your gloss resin from Foamez?
Hey Mr Clean
I use resin from the EZ boys
the gloss is pink and gloss resin requires more cat even though the can says the same as lam resin
I noticed glosses take about 1 hr to gell at about 75 deg to about 80 deg. if useing the 2% ratio as the can says, whay too slow but they come out totaly smooth, down side is resin will attack the tape adhesive.
Ive spoke with Spitzer about this and he confirmed that gloss needs a little more cat to get it to go off at a more appropriat time
also humidity is a big factor no matter what the temp is.
…hello Kensurf,
yes, with gloss resin and fine weather you can obtain such a nice surface that the rub out will be super easy, but the gloss resin is too brittle and if you do not have perfect weather and room conditions, gummy stuff or stretch marks can occurs in the rails; and of course, that attack on some tapes and on posca pinlines, due to the % of styrene
so, with hot coat resin and a meticulous polishing technique, you can obtain a very good gloss.
so, with hot coat resin and a meticulous polishing technique, you can obtain a very good gloss.
so Ive heard
Edit: Ive also heard, blending the two types works great, less splits
I have never had good results glossing with hotcoat resin.( Not saying it can’t be done).It polishes OK but was not as clear as Reichold resin over dark colors. Appeared a bit cloudy. All of my pinlines,abstracts, and solid panels are resin. I was just worrying that the slow kick would cause some bleed problems. (I had this happen with Silmar Gloss resin and never used it again except for over a clear board.) I may end up buying some cobalt to bump up the speed. We used it a lot in the late 60’s.
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I may end up buying some cobalt to bump up the speed.
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Don't overlook DMA, as a kicker for pinlines and gloss. A little goes a LOOOONGGG WAY !
Howzit Bill…I forgot about DMA. Thats was the stuff that smelled like skunk juice right? I used to use it when all I could get was clear casting resin and that stuff is slower than christmas. I wonder where I can get some in small quantities?
Gloss resin is designed to kick slower as to flow out more; by adding cobalt or DMA the resin will harden faster, but in most cases it is unnecessary. The biggest amateur mistake is applying too thick of a gloss coat, which will shear or avalanche, and separate. A thin gloss that is evenly and cleanly applied, that has adequate time to flow out is best, and that is provided that the sand job was done correctly and the board properly prepped for glossing.
Hi Roger, with the new glossing resin (last 10 years) I prefer to use it straight without adding anything. No extra wax or styrene, or cobalt. Use about 2 1/2 times the amount of catalyst as you would use for lam resin. That also acts to thin it out a little which helps flow. I like it to wax in about 3-4 minutes after the last brush stroke.
For pinlines and panels, I like glossing resin with loads of pigment. Then styrene, cobalt, extra wax then catalyst. Working at warp speed on those and starting to wax as your pulling the last of the tape.
My experience with hotcoat resin as gloss is that it goes on too thick and tends to pit.
Glosses might be brittle if they are too thick but if they are laid on thin and a minimum is left after fine sanding and compounding then they are plenty flexible. I don’t think dry time is a big factor there.