I have been been using both Reichold and Silmar gloss resins,although the end results are the same the characteristics are different.I am looking for input on this subject.Also have any of you ever attempted to add uv additive to either of these resins in the gloss process?I sometimes use Sun Cure resins for laminating and hot coating but not while glossing.The archives are down so thanks in advance. R. Brucker
I have been been using both Reichold and Silmar gloss resins,although the > end results are the same the characteristics are different.I am looking > for input on this subject.Also have any of you ever attempted to add uv > additive to either of these resins in the gloss process?I sometimes use > Sun Cure resins for laminating and hot coating but not while glossing.The > archives are down so thanks in advance. R. Brucker …VU CAT.works great with both resins,I like the sylmar gloss resin for it’s shiney appearance,but it’s touchy sh*t.Any trace of moisture,finger oil and well,can you say frogeyes…the reichold resin is easier to control,but not as glossy? my 2.5 cents anyway.Herb
…VU CAT.works great with both resins,I like the sylmar gloss resin > for it’s shiney appearance,but it’s touchy sh*t.Any trace of > moisture,finger oil and well,can you say frogeyes…the reichold > resin is easier to control,but not as glossy? my 2.5 cents anyway.Herb Roger- try cutting with a small amount of acetone, I seem to have less fish eyes when I do that, Another method is to mix in 20-30% hot coat resin. Big advantage doing hot coat color with UV - you can let it flow out perfect and kick the lights - no last minute curtains! BTW got that skil up and running ( it seemed to be just brushes ) found a 5.5 from a local shipright- stoked - S.A.
Roger- try cutting with a small amount of acetone, I seem to have less > fish eyes when I do that, Another method is to mix in 20-30% hot coat > resin. Big advantage doing hot coat color with UV - you can let it flow > out perfect and kick the lights - no last minute curtains! BTW got that > skil up and running ( it seemed to be just brushes ) found a 5.5 from a > local shipright- stoked - S.A. Why acetone?Why not styrene…or instead of adding hot coat resin just add wax solution which would both thin the resin and give it a quicker “wax rise”.Just a thought.I agree with Herb on a lot of points.Silmar is shiny but really slow to jell causing problems on resin pinlines etc.also the slow jell time sometimes tends to melt the tape a bit causing adhesive residue problems a (even with 3m 233 tape.)I have an a/c gloss room that is around 72degrees which may be too cold for Silmar but it is perfect for Reichold.Is that a problem?Silmar is thinner and seems to have a longer shelf life.Reichold is thicker but I can usually fix it with styrene.I am just now beginning to play around with color and gloss coats using UV systems…which proves that you can still teach an old dog new tricks if you yell loud enough.Thanks for the input (you got me thinking S.A. call me if you still have my number).I sure would like to hear more on this…R.B.
Why acetone?Why not styrene…or instead of adding hot coat resin just add > wax solution which would both thin the resin and give it a quicker > “wax rise”.Just a thought.I agree with Herb on a lot of > points.Silmar is shiny but really slow to jell causing problems on resin > pinlines etc.also the slow jell time sometimes tends to melt the tape a > bit causing adhesive residue problems a (even with 3m 233 tape.)I have an > a/c gloss room that is around 72degrees which may be too cold for Silmar > but it is perfect for Reichold.Is that a problem?Silmar is thinner and > seems to have a longer shelf life.Reichold is thicker but I can usually > fix it with styrene.I am just now beginning to play around with color and > gloss coats using UV systems…which proves that you can still teach an > old dog new tricks if you yell loud enough.Thanks for the input (you got > me thinking S.A. call me if you still have my number).I sure would like to > hear more on this…R.B. Silmar just doesn’t lay as flat as Reichold, even going really slow on the MEK it has the residue of brush lines in the light. I added styrene, wax all of the above, but Reichold still is the best for the money.
i have Silmar gloss resin. i was going to cut with about %10 of styrene, and %3 of s/a. sound ok??
i have Silmar gloss resin. i was going to cut with about %10 of styrene, > and %3 of s/a. sound ok?? I have been shooting Silmar gloss resin pretty much straight out of the can.I only use styrene if it has thickened up with age.Its a tough call but you will be O.K. if you add it anyway.I don,t add surfacing agent.I am speaking of normal gloss and not U.V…Make sure that you strain the resin and wipe the board with acetone just before you shoot the gloss…this gets any oil or other contaminates off and lightly “tacks” the surface.Have fun R. Brucker
I have been shooting Silmar gloss resin pretty much straight out of the > can.I only use styrene if it has thickened up with age.Its a tough call > but you will be O.K. if you add it anyway.I don,t add surfacing agent.I am > speaking of normal gloss and not U.V…Make sure that you strain the > resin and wipe the board with acetone just before you shoot the > gloss…this gets any oil or other contaminates off and lightly > “tacks” the surface.Have fun R. Brucker what do you use to wipe the board. that “tack” always gets me small fuzzys with any of the cloths I’ve used (when using acetone). first board I used an orange shop rag…HA! that turned out nice. all I had to wipe the orange fuzz off with was another orange rag!
what do you use to wipe the board. that “tack” always gets me > small fuzzys with any of the cloths I’ve used (when using acetone). first > board I used an orange shop rag…HA! that turned out nice. all I had to > wipe the orange fuzz off with was another orange rag! I guess I worded that wrong.Just before I shoot a gloss I wipe the board with a white bounty paper towel saturated with acetone (not too wet),the acetone takes care of oils etc. and lightly melts the surface of the sanded hot coat making it slightly “tacky”.Before taking the board into the gloss area I thoroughly blow it clean with my air compressor. R. Brucker
I guess I worded that wrong.Just before I shoot a gloss I wipe the board > with a white bounty paper towel saturated with acetone (not too wet),the > acetone takes care of oils etc. and lightly melts the surface of the > sanded hot coat making it slightly “tacky”.Before taking the > board into the gloss area I thoroughly blow it clean with my air > compressor. R. Brucker Prior to glossing I wash and scrub the sanded board with dish soap then rinse off real good and let dry. To remove any dust try dragging masking tape across the board, I do it about 3 times before applying my gloss which is thinned about 15% with styrene.Aloha, Kokua
so gloss resin already contains wax, right? thanks for help