that is a shame… you don’t have to be a surfer to appreciate Rensin’s narrative, he’s got a simple workmanlike style; nothing wrong with that .
I totally agree with the premise that the story of Dora’s life answers the question “how far will you go?” If life is a series of questions “will you do this for me?”, “will you you do what I tell you to please?” - Dora keeps saying no every single time, except the one most important question, which he completely gives himself to & says yes
My point was not that it “answers” anything, but it certainly would cause some folks to ask that question of themselves. “What am I willing to sacrifice? How many bridges can I burn and still live with myself?”
Where do you draw the line? How many friends and relatives can you forsake? The book’s title sums it up. Well chosen.
I don’t know, I think the way he lived his life pretty much answers the question - as much as we know, after all, I don’t “know” him, but yes, he went pretty far to live the life. I like to think of Dora as the Caravaggio of his time and place.
The books about Dora and MP are very interesting, but also show how very unique these two great surfers were. I gave my brother a signed copy of the Dora book, and a signed copy of the “Fierce Heart” book about Makaha. Met Stuart Coleman a couple of times and he was always a nice guy.
I had a book years ago called Paumalu. I think it was written by John Mulius? It was fiction but it mirrored the beach boy gigolo life style that many had and probably still live. I’ve known a few guys that could have easily been the main character. The book about “Waikiki Beach Boys” tells the life of the real characters.
I liked Ricky Grigg’s book Big Surf Big Dives… .
“Change We Must” by Nan Veary is something I strongly recommend for those interested in Hawaiians and what is called Aloha Spirit.
“Hawaii: the sugar-coated fortress” by Francine du Plessix Gray is an interesting look at our history.
Howzit Warthawg, It just so happens I am reading "The Wayward Bus" right now I am at the part where Alice is getting drunk in the diner. I had thought I had read every thing John had written till I found this book in our home library, It's a good read for sure and I want to read "Travels With Charlie "again. Aloha,Kokua
Hi Kokua, that’s a coincedence, huh? There was a classic-era Hollywood film version of it too, which might be fun to rent. I want to reread Travels with Charley (“ffft”- remember that? heh), loved it as a kid.
Has anyone mentioned Moby Dick? I’ve been reading it for about ten years. Almost through. Mike
I don't think anyone has mentioned Hawaii by James Mitchner. That book really gives some insights into the history of Hawaii and the missionaries.
Howzit Warthawg, I never knew about the movie but then again I just found out it was the one JS book I had not read. Think I will look into the DVD if they have it. Aloha,Kokua
Longtime lurker, first time poster. As a hobby, I’ve reviewed more than 100 books related to surfing and general water culture at www.thewatermanslibrary.com. The site is something I do in my spare time, so don’t get too upset if you don’t agree with a review. I acknowledge that reviews are highly subjective. Hope it’s helpful to you.
Moby Dick!!!
And Typee.
C
Howzit Warthawg, Finished " The Wayward Bus " yesterday and have to admit the ending was anti climatic. It was like John just stopped writing the story and I was disappointed to say the least.. Aloha,Kokua
Nice Thread…
I would like to recommend the following:
KOOK - Peter heller
Saltwater Buddha - Jaimal Yogis
Surfing brilliant Corners - Sam Bleakley
Cold Water Souls - Chris Nelson
All excellent reading. In my opinion each book delves nicely under the skin of why we surf.
Enjoy 