I’ve posted some of the boards my father has scored for me in recent years. His retirement hobby the past 20 years has been auctions and yard sales. He’s come through once again. This is the second Skil 100 he’s gotten for me. The first one was pristeen. This one is a little rough. Has a bit of corrosion. The biggest thing is that it is missing the mechanism that attaches the blades to the drum. It is also missing the dust chute. This one is a 7.5 amp type 5 while my good one is a 7.5 amp type 4. Not sure the difference. Otherwise it runs good. This one cost half of what my pristeen one cost…which is half of almost nothing…
Not sure what my plans will be for this one…keep it for parts, sell it, or fix it. Really just needs blades and the blade clamp and screws.
Sorry for the poor cell phone pictures. That’s all I have for now until my parents come back north in a couple weeks. Planer was found at a yard sale in West Central Florida for about the cost of lunch for one at McDonalds.
This is a Skil 100 Type 5, last model they made. Same as all the others except: Different motor housing (rear motor bearing), blades/cutter head. Everything is interchangeable with other Skil’s if using the complete cutter assembly or complete motor housing unit. You can get new type 5 blades from American National Knife (tell them the ones with the grooves not slots) and I have a set of carriers for sale (PM me). Run it and measure the current, if 3.5 - 4.0 amps it’s OK, 3.0 - 3.5 real good, 2.7 - 3.0 like new. If over 4 amps, part it out. Unfortunately, the newer the Skil the crappier the motors were.
Thank’s Pete. Learned a lot in that post. I was trying to have a long distance conversation with my father about what was missing on the drum and it was as if we were looking at two completely different things. The picture he texted me of the drum had me perplexed. Now I know why. So how exactly are the blades held in place on this version?
I don’t think this planer ever saw much use but I think it was stored in a poor manner for a very long time and that is why it has the corrosion issues.
I’ve got it all stripped down except for the pully on the drum. The nut is off and everything is loose and free. For some reason I can’t get the pully to come off. The little pin or woodruff key inside there is preventing me from getting it off. Is there some trick I’m missing here? Everything is loose even the key inside the pully wiggles a bit. I don’t want to force anything or dig around in there and bugger anything up. Figured I’d ask if there is a trick before I go further.
I’m sure Pete will get back to you in a bit. But yes I think Barry is right. Penetrating oil and a gear puller. I’ve had them apart , but never to the point of pulling the gear or bearings. I let Pete do it. He the greatest at these things. Barry --I have a front shoe. One corner was broken off so I ground/rounded it off. Still functional as it is. You are welcome to it if you want it. Lowel
