got rail bands?

General Discussion
1

eh brahs,

 

Can you guys send me yer measurements for rail-bands? For a 6’2" (classic single fin) board that I’m doing, I was told to use 2 1/2" from the rail and 1" from that and another 1" for the third band. 

I wanna see if yers is close to somethin’ like this.

 

 

Thanks,

 

2

http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1018545

print this out. read it, study it, know it, love it, live it…

take it to work with you, take it to the john, laminate it and stick it to your shower wall, …

there will be a test later. the test will be how good or not your blank looks…

 

3

thanks Chris but I fell asleep on the 1st and 2nd page…holy crap! where’s the templates? nevermind.

 

 

4

I would like to know those numbers also.

5

hahaha, yah, it’s a read that’s why i said print it out =)… you can save yourself some time and only read B.Barnfields posts.

while other people have good input and questions, his posts are the meat and potatoes…

bye the way, regarding your original question, i really have no idea what those measurements should be and i’m definitely

not the guy that you’d want that kind of info from anyways. hopefully someone with more experience will respond.

6

this might get you started Gnar

 

http://greenlightsurfsupply.com/railband-dimensions.aspx

7

whoa…that’s perfect. thanks braddah.

 

 

 

 

8

giving a guy a fish as opposed to teaching him how to fish… whatever floats your boat.

suggestion to consider:   bookmark the rail banding thread for some time when you feel like trying to make your boards work even better!

9

Yeah Brukah, I left the cake in the rain and can’t remember the number, it is not numbers, it is looking at the profile  and dividing it up into porportions that are suitable for what you want. The lower the rail type, the lower the band, 50/50, more even top and bottom, high rail, less off the top. The real issue is getting it the same on the lower edge, the top side is shaped again to roll it onto the flats.

I have a mental picture of how I want it to be, cut one side and be satisfied, then repeat for the opposite rail.

I always cut in my bottom first, this is what controls the board, I tune it up before going onto the deck bands, for beginers, doing deck first, you run out of foam before you get it right, overly layed over and pinched or cut away at the plan shape.

A good tip is to use a carbon artists pencil and blacken the plan shape, this gives a good view of how much is still there after you start the initial cuts.

I leave the small flat of the plan shape until the last moments of the finish shape before dragging my fine screen over it, this was you don’t lose the original outline

10

thanks for those tips Jim

11

hey guys,

 

Here’s my first shaped board (single fin). Does it look like a single fin? freakin’ A man! that template said it was.

 

 

 

 

Thanks,

 

12

Right on Jim. I helped a friend of mine with his shaping and he was using “numbers” to do  rail bands. When I tried to explain that numbers don’t really work he balked and refused to go with the flow.He later became a pretty damn good shaper. I was in his shaping bay one day and noticed he was doing rail bands by eye. I mentioned this and he said he should have listened.

     Rail bands can be difficult so if you are a beginner don’t freak out. Just keep on plugging and enjoy the journey. When I learned hot to shape I had Jim Phillips right beside me in a two stall shaping room so it was a great situation. Even with him looking over my shoulder it took probably 20 boards before I got the thumbs up.

    I like to see the beginners come around here. To me it’s what Sways is all about.

13

doesn’t look like a retro single fin…darn it !