Just picked this up off e-bay yesterday.I got it for pretty cheap, but is it worth putting back together?I heard they are good riders and would like to give it a try.Anyone have advice on putting broken boards back together?
Check out Bill Barnfields broken board guide. It’s around here somewhere.
Two short stringers routed in one on each side of the stringer. I use the five gallon basswood paint stir sticks like you can get at Home Depot. Sink 'em, grind em and glass 'em. It’s worth it for a rider. Provided you’ve got the time for a project like that.
No, No, No…Just glue it back together with whatever. Elmers, resin,whatever. Then fill the voids between the foam and crack with a light weight filler. Then just glass it with a belt of glass. Most likely 2x6 on top, and 2 six on the bottom… it will never break on that break again, never, never ever. Trust me, you don’t need extra stringers splints, and sistered boards, it’s just extra work. When I worker for Mr. X I probably did 400 of these, short boards, long boards, mid boards. Most of the time when we would tell some one it would cost $150, the would leave the board, and say not worth it. we’d fix it, put it on the for sale rack at $200.00 and make great profit… there’s gold in dem broken boards boys!!
The trick is getting the blank realigned. The glue is just to hold it together till you get it all reglassed.
And what about the guys who paid the $150? You know. The ones who went out and snapped the board again in the same place, who wouldn’t do another dollars worth of business with you. You must live in Florida or somewhere where the surf is mush. Do a snap like that in Hawaii and guaranteed the customer will not be back to do future biz. That is unless he’s some big brudda who’s gone pound your a$$ for rippin’ him off. Off course it sounds like Rob isn’t doing it for profit. So if it breaks again “no problem”. Two short stringers across the break, glue the old glass back down(if you can) then fill and glass. I used to never guarantee a snap and I used to do them the way you desribed. After I found out a couple of them had snapped again, I changed to the stringered method. NOW I can say to the customer as he goes out the door "It’ll never break again in the same spot. If done right the weight gain is minor. I have done numerous un-stringered surftechs and 11 ft. Softtops for Surf Schools here on Maui that were completly snapped in half using short stringers accross the break. The only thing still intact was the fabric across the deck. They never snap again in the same place. In fact they never snapp again at all.
Resinhead - you’re quite the opportunist. To anyone looking to fix a board, this is not a proper means o do so.
OP, take into consideration the weight of this board, as well as the traditional resin/glass/foam/etc (and bonding issues between it and today’s resin etc). You might find that this will not be worth riding after fixing due to flexing and weakness. These boards are increadibly fun, and it would be a good learning experience for you…
Also, I find it ironic that you work for Foam-EZ and are asking such a question, but who am I to say?
Back to my alaia’s!
Contact Bob Bolan himself, he may want this board and will have the shop that does his glassing fix it. If he doesn’t, you may want to have it done by a pro. There is significant glass damage besides the break to address. The skill, effort, and time needed to properly repair this board is more than glassing a new blank.
On adding wood reinforcement, I rarely do it because it’s not needed for 90% of the conditions in SoCal in my opinion. Here’s how I do it though: After I have the board glued back together, I route 1/4" slots on both sides of the stringer about 1" deep on both sides of the board. Then insert 1/4" strips of plywood into the slots with thickned lam resin. Sand the strips flush and glass over. My rule for the length of the glassing on a break is at least 2x the width of the board. Cut the cloth so that the ends are triangular. Gorilla glue will hold together even broken SUP’s without glassing so you can fill/add wood/whatever before laminating the cloth.
What ever guys. I never had a board come back broken at the same spot. Gee how’d you know I live in Florida, you really know me! Nice memory.
Then here’s how I’d fix the snap:
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Strip off all the old glass
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saw the blank with a band saw along both sides of the stringer
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go to home depot and buy some high density HD HDMI foam with carbon refi
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now rebuild custom stringer and glue with rubberbands, c-clamps, and a left over garden hose
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reshape the board
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air brush with custom skull and naughty rump girl
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Glass with 4 oz.
I guess I wrong here, sorry for the miss information.
I do it exactly the same way. If you can reglue the peeled glass it helps, because you won’t have to do as much fill or any extra layers of glass to bring everything up flush. Good idea about calling Bob though. There aren’t that many of his old boards around.
Rob
cut away the lifted glass and fix the blank and reglass the area
go surf it
Resinhead, that’s completely different from what you originally said. Also, 4oz cloth on a vintage board? You’re dreaming. Conditions don’t matter in this situation. If you get a 30+ pound board moving, it’s going to require some serious structural integrity - especially where this perticular board snapped. What works with your standard grom shortboard nose-snap will not work for such boards.
I use a bundle of roving instead of wood. I carve out two shallow slots on either side of the stringer, and lay roving in there. I do that on both the deck and bottom. You can lay it in there, smooth it flat with your finger, and lam right on top of that at the same time. Saves a step, and the long strands of roving are more structurally sound than wood.
In either case, it will never flex the same again.