Greenlight's natural bamboo glassing fabric

im not too versed in the use of vac bags but i have done about 50 or 60 traditional epoxy lams. i dont get what you guys are talking about having to tape the cloth to stretch it. do you mean that you have to stretch the cloth around the side your doing then tape it around the rail and onto the deck/bottom? if so that sounds like a lot of work and couldnt really see the materials use at factory production levels.

also if it is sucking up a lot of resin than while it may be strong it sounds like the strength to weight ratio is much lower than epoxy/fiberglass.

has anyone who has worked with it done a traditional lam- ie. without a vac bag? if so what are your observations with durability. i have heard that the stuff feels pretty weak but that was an observation from a few years ago, maybe there have been some improvements in the material since then.

Tony Banger,

The resin is applied with a hard plastic spreader and excess resin is pulled from the lam - from a saturated area to an unsaturated area - enabling you to reduce the amount of resin used. The lam roller is then used to press the bamboo into the the foam (or wood) for a stronger bond and help prevent delams.

I don’t know why lam rollers are not a standard tool in surfboard laminating … at least for epoxy. Other composite parts (aerospace, marine, medical, etc.) use lam rollers .

~Brian

www.greenlightsurfsupply.com

Aloha oneula!

Thanks for posting your experience with the bamboo. You can always feel free to contact me if you have questions or trouble.

I’ll try to set the record straight on some of your observations in an effort to help other homeshapers using our bamboo effectively and not have the issues you’ve encountered.

I know you’ve viewed them but the instructional videos I produced for bamboo glassing show you step-by-step exactly how to do it without any issues.

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first of all I don’t think you want to do this from what we saw cause the fabric sucks up resin to no end.
Probably a good idea to use real slow cure so you can work it in with the roller cause we did end up squeegee-ing quite a bit off in the end.

See post above. Resin Research 2000 with Fast hardner is the way to go.

a couple observations:

  1. it’s about 50% more effort than glassing with regular glass

Yes, more setup time is required than free lapping with fiberglass. But you’re doing cutlaps. Same setup, just have to peel the double sided tape. Quickest method to peel the tape is shown in video

why?

  • placing and setting the double stick tapes takes time

- cutting the 60" wide cloth into 20" wide panels is a challenge cause the cloth is so stretchy

Roll cloth into cylider and chop right through with scissors - see vid.

- attaching the cloth to the tape is time consuming better to do it with two people

3 minutes tops. One person. Do one rail first, center to tail then center to nose. Then move to the other side and do same thing but pull cloth as far as it can go before adhering to the tape. You can go back to the first side to tighten it all up if you feel it is necessary. Lams should be pulled tight as possible for less resin use and stronger lamination.

2. the cloth soaks up alot of resin

The bamboo lam requires approximately 2.5 oz of epoxy per board foot (with a 1 1/2" lap). For a 6’8" fish 21" wide I will mix up 9 oz total (6 R : 3 H) and brush the rails using about 6 maybe 7 oz total. Flip the board and pour the rest on the bottom. Mix another 9 oz. and finish off.

I always heat the resin component of the epoxy in the mircowave (3 sec per oz) before adding hardener and mixing. It reduces viscosity and helps flow out and into the bamboo. I roughly figure it uses about 10% less resin when heated (less viscosity) than unheated. Cure faster too!

3. stretching the cloth correctly over the rail makes some really cleap laps.

Yeah, no fiberglass strings to screw up the free lap. Cutlaps are the same. The double sided tape acts a resin dam to give you a really clean line and scored with a razor, the excess bamboo and tape peel off easily. I push the clean lap down into the foam with a roller or popsicle stick - no sanding or grinding needed.

Note: If applying the double sided tape on a painted surface put a layer of masking tape down first to prevent the double sided from pulling up some paint chips.

4. it helps to have more width than th recommended 20" especially if stretching and fastening it by yourself.

It’ll stretch to 25"-26" inches. I now use a 1" lap from the rail to reduce a bit of resin and weight.

5. the resulting finish after hot coating is very rough almost like 60-80 grit sandpaper.

The natural bamboo fibers are spun into a thread and some random ones will stick out (microscopically). These fibers gather the epoxy like speed bumps. You can quickly sand them down when the lam cures, it’ll make the hotcoat flatter : better finish. Or on the deck you can leave the bumps and it’s a textured deck! The bumps will hold the wax better - use less wax. Best part of a textured deck is you don’t bother sanding it!

6. the thick double stick foam tape makes cutting the laps a little cleaner

7. sanding the hot coat was pretty easy without hitting any of the weave eventhough the surface was so rough. So it wasn’t the glass but the resin rising to the surface

8. the end result is extremely opaque since we were glassing a wood lammed board it really dulls the look. The cloth would work great over a white EPS or blue XPS foam shape though.
Grain Surfboards uses our bamboo for custom boards. They look pretty good. Due to the natural tan color of the bamboo I figure it dulls the board by 1 or 2 hue values on a color wheel… Not a big deal for most board builders wanting a natural alternative.

[img_assist|nid=1043147|title=grain-bamboo-glassed|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=427]

[img_assist|nid=1043148|title=grain_bamboo_2|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=427]

9. After glassing the end result appears very strong and very stiff even with one layer of cloth and after sanding the hot coat you can’t squeeze it no matter how hard you press. Very impressive this bamboo fiber…

Yes.

10. We anticipated that the end result would be heavy with all the resin we used i,e, 20+ozs versus 12ozs for an 8’0. You also have to do your resin in two batches. The first smaller batch is for painting and saturating the rail lap before flipping the board and doing the surface with the second batch. But after sanding off the excess resin that rises to the top the weight drops back down. So there’s somne waste if you don’t use a slow set and take the time to roll in the resin to the cloth. Probably better to paint it on with a brush like you do with on the laps versus using the standard squeegee technique.

Paint the resin on the rails. No waste. Best results.

It’s a bit more effort and the opaque result isn’t for a wood compsand, but it looks like its very strong if not also very stiff. Probably using RR flex which they recommend versus FBH 2-1 would be better… We can see putting this on a EPS shape no problem.

RR 2000 or 2020.

Finally…
the stuff is so soft, stretchy and cool that it would make make great underwear, sleepwear, or t-shirts.
Better than hemp clothes for sure…

www.footprintbamboo.com

Hope these comments help. There are now a whole lot of bamboo glassed boards out there. Mostly by first time shapers who’ve used our kits. They have had great success and are super stoked with the bamboo. Any of you guys or girls reading this post please join in and comment on your experience.

As far as seasoned board builders who’ve always used traditional fiberglass, I’d say there’s a 50/50 split on their perception of how easy bamboo is compared to fiberglass. Half love it and say it’s easier and fun , half hate the double sided tape setup time. I guess it relates to the mindset of epoxy being harder to work with and Polyester.

It’s just different!

~Brian

www.greenlightsurfsupply.com

Hey guys! I descovered a trick that really helps with the laps and the problem of the cloth occasionally slipping due to wet resin on the double sided tape.

After you have stretched the cloth and are ready to pour resin, get some cheap masking tape(1/2" to 1") and lay it on the cloth at the lap line.

What this does is sandwich the cloth between the double stick and masking tape preventing resin from going past the lap line.

You get two tremendous benefits from this. One…it greatly reduces the chance of the cloth slipping. and two…it leaves you with a virtually perfect lap line because you end up just cutting cloth instead of having to cut through resin. Pro looking lap lines…EVEN FOR A BEGINNER!

Clean, perfect lap lines! No funky, jagged, wiggley lines (unless you taped it that way) and they are super easy to sand/grind.

Hope this helps.

Don’t get me wrong its good stuff

Especially for me with no itchys like Fiberglass

Bottomline…

Do your best to pull it as tight as possible how ever you can and it’s a great alternative to fiberglass

Using low viscosity and a slightly more flexible resin helps too as does bagging the glass with an absorber if you are comfortable with that.

Its an alternative

you just need to keep that in mind and make your choices appropriately

I’ve got some that i’m going to experiment with using infusion.

I figure its the perfect candidate for it, as the infusion process will strangle all the excess resin out of it.

I’ve heard a lot about it soaking up resin, and also reports that it’s brittle.

I think they are actually the same problem - all the extra resin makes for a seemingly brittle result.

Infusion resins tend to be more flexible than lam resins, and a very compacted laminate with minimal resin should be extremely supple, by my estimate!

The other thing is that infusion completely forces resin into the fibre, so it should have the best chance of wetting out perfectly clear.

Dunno when i’ll get round to trying it, but i’ll report back when I do!

I hope you meant that infusion laminates are more flexible that hand lams. Infusion resins themselves shouldn’t be more flexible unless your using something that isn’t formulated well. Dryer laminates, which infusion generally is, are more flexible. But the resins themselves should be high modulus. Higher than hand layup generally.

Yeah I guess thats probably true.

But the ultra low visc resins seem to have %elongation figures around 5 - 6%, whereas hand-lam resins are around 3 - 4?

Thats just obsevations from the resins i’ve used and their data sheets, i’m sure it’s more complicated than that!

The lower resin content and higher compaction are a winner for sure.

And the bonding strength on wood is just insane… You can sort of peel off a handlam, but an infused laminate - no chance!

" All of a sudden I hit a spot right in the middle of the board and what do I see… But a 6" strip of 2" wide masking tape that must have attached itself to the cloth as I was taking off the first set of tape strips… Needless to say I was pissed but there really wasn’t anything i could do at this point other than finish glassing the board. I’ll have to hide it with some graphics on the sanded hot coat before I gloss the board…"

Oneula thats classic! Brings to mind what else might get stuck under a lam…

Hey, yeah, the lap edges are stuck down with double-sided tape…oohh thats worse than sabotage, to try to get anything out from under…

I have’nt tried the bamboo cloth, but something comes to mind. At one stage I did a number of 2oz lams without cutting glass to the trim line. Instead I left the rectangle corners but wrung them up into a rope underneath the board and pegged it to the lam stands. This tensioned the glass on the side to be worked on, pulling out the 2oz tendency to float and crinkle.

I wonder if thats applicable to the stretchy bamboo cloth…

Josh

www.joshdowlingshape.com

I read that some of the wooden board builders over at treetosea.org were experimenting with the bamboo cloth, what some of them have found is that it is possible to sew the cloth into a slightly smaller than the board sized bag (kind of like a tight sock). I think sewing the seam on the outside of the “sock” which can then be zipped off with a razor, filed or sanded flat before hotcoating. There’s no need to use any tape then, and little chance of accidentally leaving strips under the lam (damn!) This info is in the “glassing” section at the above if you want more details.

yeah, thats right. Ive tried it on a few boards and Matt has documented his efforts on TreetoSEA. You have to sew the sock under tension so the stiching doesnt pop when stretched.

It takes a bit more time and you have to be pretty accurate with your measuring and sewing, but…NO LAPS!!! gotta love that.

Is this the guy that was shaping out of the FCS factory down in SD?

That guy was doing some really cool stuff...all aloha.

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LEARN: chill the fuck out and concentrate
- Wouter

Dan is all Aloha. Bringing it back to the roots.  That's why we're all here anyway...

Here's a board from Dan O'Hara at Solid Surf www.solidsurfco.com ("The Discus" model) with the Greenlight Bamboo Fabric. Dan ripped down recycled EPS rails from outline cuts and glued up a new blank.  Then, he laminated with Greenlight Bamboo Fabric (2 Layers Top, 1 Layer Bottom. Just like normal 4oz E Cloth).  He used epoxy resin (not sure which manufacturer). He also used the Greenlight Bamboo Fin Panels to cut out and foil his own bamboo fins. The bamboo was foiled first to get the real benefits and performance of the lightweight and stong bamboo and then laminated.  He's also got the corn based bio-plastic leash plug as well.

The strength, compression, flex and weight are very similar to a 4oz E Cloth.  The only negative feedback I've received with the bamboo was from a shaper who designed a high performance shortboard with Greenlight's bamboo for a surfer who was testing in big waves.  The board was glassed with the standard 2 layers top and 1 layer bottom.  The waves were really big and the board got pressure dings that ran through the glass and into the board after several massive air-drops.  In this situation I would have suggested using an extra deck patch. (which is also commonly done to strengthen fiberglass boards).  But, I'm convinced this would have happend weather it was a fiberglass lam or Greenlight bamboo lam. 

I also shipped some material to the North Shore for some R&D and am waiting for feedback TBanger's exact questions.  Once I get that info I'll post it.

All Greelight Bamboo Glassing Materials for Dan's board and bio-plug supplied by SPEARZ - High Performance Surf www.spearz.com  (except epoxy)

 

i like the fabric to be honest.

easy to use. no messing with laps since its stretched. i hate using normal glass. its in tension so when ive gotten sharp dings they slowly stretch out.

Is this the guy that was shaping out of the FCS factory down in SD?

That guy was doing some really cool stuff…all aloha.

Anyone have any problems with the double sided tape "rolling" up as your stretching the fabric? This happend to me and I might have to re-due the tape and the cloth. Any ideas or help would be greatful!

I have shaped and glassed several boards using Brians methods. The cleanest cut laps ever! Watch the videos and you will find the processes he has developed work extremely well. Several of you experienced trouble with stretching the bamboo and the tape releasing. I found that you can stretch it some… press down with just moderate pressure, then just keep pulling it up…stretch more and press it back onto the tape…I make several passes around the board and when I feel that it’s just about stretched to the max, I use the lam roller to press the cloth into the tape with max pressure. Use 2" or 3" masking tape to reinforce the tension on the nose and tail areas. Also only paint the resin just barely over the edge of the tape to avoid the epoxy from releasing the cloth from the tape. If you take your time you can actually stretch the bamboo cloth over the nose of a “flyer” or the tail tips of a fish. Removing the tape from the EPS without tearing or pulling up foam can be tricky at times, take your time and fix the tearouts with spackle

I attempted and succeded with the bamboo fabric last night. Followed all of the videos from Brian to a T. However, nothing worked. My first batch of resin geled up becuase i used too much additive F and the masking tape did not stick at the nose so the lap line is jacked up at the nose. Oh well, first time for everything. Ill post pictures tonight!

Did you pour out the resin or were you working out of the cup?

Woody

I was working out of the cup, just like the videos did. I was doing the rails and before I knew it, gelled up on the rails, and in the cup. So added less additive f next batch no problems except that the double sided tape and masking tape would not hold the bamboo fabric on. Im sure its great stuff and Brian has probalbly done a ton of them, but I think Ill try fiberglass next time. Did not have any luck with the bamboo!