Leon is a very cool guy. I got this decent little 6’6" from him and he went surfing with us today. Oh!..and the locals here SHRED!
Monday…bad surf, but I surfed well so I was still stoked.
Today…good surf…but I was totally blowing it all morning long. I was just about to head in when I caught this sick little left and I milked it for all it was worth. When I looked up, there were people screaming and cheering on the beach! I thought to myself, “they must not have seen you KOOKING it out the whole rest of the morning.”
Well…I guess I’m gratefull that this was the one of those rare times somebody actually SAW me catch my wave of the day.
Howzit synergytodd, Since you are in the area make sure you get a surf at Saladita ,used to be real hard to find but I understand that has changed. It’s a really fun left that is really long ,and I mean really long.Aloha,Kokua