in order to live a happy life you have to learn make the best of what you got before its all gone.

goes for alot of things in life


also only the best of the best can make the most of that little space between the foam ball and the shoulder where all the beginners ride.

that's what originally started the art of snaking in the lineup

original snakers learned to take advantage of that little extra space found on most waves these days.

nowadays they try and call you off after snaking


a wise elder once scolded us groms in the lineup for being selfish and acting tough with these words..

"what god made the rule that it had to be one surfer per wave?"

"No wave is ever created with someone's name written on it"

"selfishness is what takes the enjoyment out of a line up"

I think that elder was called Rell Sunn