I need the router guide for longboard boxes. anyone know how to make them or where to buy one.
Thanks
Cain
I need the router guide for longboard boxes. anyone know how to make them or where to buy one.
Thanks
Cain
Wardo,
You can use 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood, or 1/4" Polycarbonate plastic to make your own template. Here’s how:
Cut the template material to approximately the size of the average board you make. Mine looks like the tail of a square-tail surfboard.
Decide how big you want the slot to be. A decent size for Fins Unlimited boxes is 1/16" bigger all around. That works out to be
1-1/8" x 10-5/8".
Take some 1/4" pieces of wood or masonite, it doesn’t matter the material, and tack them down to your template with an opening that is EXACTLY the size you want for the hole. For this illustration: 1-1/8" x 10-5/8" inside dimension. These will be a temporary guide for your router as it cuts out the hole in the template.
I tack these down with small pin nails out of a nail gun, but you can use 3d nails, or even hot glue.
You will need a pattern bit for the router. (bearing on top when the router is upright) Set your router on the temporary guides and
plunge down into the template cutting the center out first. Once the center of the slot is cut, move to the sides letting the bearing touch the temporary guides. As you are cutting, the bearing will run along the guides cutting the exact slot you layed out.
Once you’re done cutting, pull the guides and the slot will be done. Remember, the pattern bit will only cut what you layed out, so be precise with your guide pieces.
One more thing: Most boards have some V in the tail, so I glue some wedges on the bottom of my template so it sits on the board without rocking. I let the wedges stick out on the sides, so there is something to clamp the template down to the board.
Also, it’s a good idea to wax the template on the top so the router moves smoothly and doesn’t hang up. I use Minwax furniture paste wax: the old standby for cabinetmakers to slick-up their power tools.
Doug
A related question: For longboard fin box, is it better to install under the glass or cut through the glass after it cures. I have a video that show the finbox under the glass but it does not show how the finbox is uncovered after glassing. Many post here suggest installing after glassing. I think it would be strong to go under the glass but I am not sure how to finish the process (uncover after glassing).
I’m a primitive in this game but what I’ve done is fill the slot in the box with plasticine and level it out. Glass over the top in the usual way and then use a Stanley knife to cut through the glass and dig out the plasticine. It works for me but the troops here will have much better methods.
Well I think I have it worked out. The longboard finbox by O’fish’l is specifically designed to go under the glass. After glassing, the cap is sanded off to reveal the open box. This seems very strong. Their leash plugs work the same way. More expensive but I like the design.