happy new year

Happy New Year http://www.theglasser.com/

I paddled out to my usual haunt this morning, trying to wash away a few months of trials and tribulations. The waves were up to shoulder high and I was on my trusty steed for the first time in a very long time. A healthy offshore ruffled the waves. There were only one or two people at each break, so I made my way out to the last empty reef. For about an hour, got re-aquainted with long-radius rail turns and trim. Enjoying the chatter of a 7’4" hull racing down the line. One of my rides took me to the inside portion of Newbreak (hallowed be thy name). There was only two folks out so I slowly made my way out the back and waited in line. We all took turns and smiled at one another (quite unusual here). I continued to follow the speed line, that pull down the wall when you put it on a rail. No cutbacks today. I finally ran out of gas and proned in. I was flushed of the poisons and had an ear to ear grin. As I walked back along the base of the cliff, I nodded to one of Newbreak regulars (a “blackhat”)that was pulling on his wetsuit, “Happy New Year”. He motioned me over. “Man, you ought to get a new board or something 'cause you surfed like crap out there,” he grumped. Being a little shocked, I responded with a “Whatever…” and walked off, my post-session high now completely deflated. By the time I got back to the car, I was back on top of the world. The whole walk back I thought about what had happend back in September of this year and what happens at Swaylock’s every day (well, almost every day). What a poor, isolated, narrow minded, little man he is. Happy New Year everyone. Start the new year with a smile and give someone a wave.