Thanks to all for your support and concern. I feel like I’ve turned the corner on the low energy thing. It’s been a while, and I keep feeling better. I’m doing a new diet, supplements and meds, and way less “partying.”
A few weeks ago I was stoked and able to stay our for four hours… Even my beloved woman commented on how long I was out - I told her, “Some times it takes a long time to cleanse my soul…”
Had a few good test sessions on the 11’er, but nothing over 10’@12"… Yet… I hope… Ha! Had some other good sessions too. (I added this after writing about my “ideas”) I moved the “true apex” and deck belly volume back @ 10" to facilitate “popping up” with my back foot far enough back, while still having the board paddle well… Well, it’s working great, so I can hardly wait to incorporate it into my next “shorter” board.
Ooo, ooo, side note. The pink quad I made last spring and took to mainland Mex last summer, the one I said got a 4-5" bubble, so I poked a hole in it and kept on using it… Well, the experiment turned out to be a bit of a “bust.” The bubble was right under my right hip bone/butt cheek, ball of front foot… seemed fine, then after a semi heavy session at “my secret reef” Ha! Head high and high tide thick… The glass cracked rail to rail right through the little delam… Lesson to me, well, I’ve seen and had boards with bigger delams last for ages, but this one being right in the middle seems to have been a set up for minor disaster… I’ll go back to patching sooner than latter. Ha!
Ok - Here’s to some good waves, and heck, maybe just making a new board (I’m full of “mo betta” ideas for a new one…) instead of another big patch job.
Thanks again to all, and I can say I love this place… Changed my life. I’d like to say more positive goodness to all - I hope not to be to offensive. Doing my best.
Good to hear Taylor, I remember reading about your health issues. I knew it was just a matter of time before you got back in the line up and feeling better.
Howzit Taylor, Your Sway brothers are always here for you and all you need to do is let us know if you need help.They were there for me when things were in the tank forme and I am so glad to have you all there for me,Priceless. Aloha, Kokua
Spent all of November sick with a bad chest cold and nagging cough. Last week I finally got some water time and the waves have been sooo good. Got in 3 days of surfing clean 3 foot (Hawaiian style) waves, and plan on getting out the next 3 days as well.
Amazing how the surf can take you from a low to such a high.
Taylor and Kokua keep taking care of yourselves. Hope to meet you one day.
I share your sentiment Harry - I’d love to meet all the Swaybreathren some day.
“Amazing how the surf can take you from a low to such a high.”
That notion has me thinking about working on “the balance,” or lack there of in my life… I don’t like when I get myself into such a negative state of mind when I’m not surfing. I love surfing, but I feel like I need something positive to focus on when I’m not able to - thankfully I still love playing my guitar too. Ha!
Thanks again - Hopefully more build pics to come soon… Ha!
To be fair - the 4 hour session was a sunny day, with little wind…
The other day I had a 3 hour session, overcast and cold off shores… More challenging to be sure, but some good return on investment… Ha!
Plus - many guys around here give me grief for wearing a 6/5/4, 5/4 is good enough they say - same for the thick boots, and sometimes even for gloves… What ever… When the good ones come, I like to be able to try as long as possible… Ha!
Ya know - the good sets are a ways between when you get a real 14+" swell…