An ultra light board arrived and the owner wants it glassed in a heavier glass but its got FCS plugs.
I can’t remember how to glass a layer of 6 or 10 oz over plugs and do it properly, I’m sure Ive done it before but for the life of me I can’t figure out how Ive done it.
should I,
Think some more.
Use round stickers over the plugs and cut out when gelled.
The tape circles will work it you’ll need to cut out after lam has gelled and then replace tape for hotcoat. No matter how light it is currently I wouldn’t be putting 10oz over the top of an existing glass job…
I don’t want to sound unkind, but if you are asking questions like this, you aren’t up to the task of laminating over a new board. Sell it, and have one made with the glassing schedule he wanted.
I’m sorry Clint. What were we after here? You getting some practice and possibly ruining your friends new board, or your friend getting a heavy glass job?
Sand board up to fiber, put out screws and fill plugs holes with wax (candle or otherwax) or modeling clay, lam as usual, open holes while lam is soft with a razor blade (like a cut lap). Scotch masking tape holes for filler coat. When you lam air traped in plug avoid resin to drain in plug if you go quick, in fact this air push lam so you ended with a bubble, that’s way i fill holes.
That’s the best answer yet !
I wasnt talking about shaping at all, so you’re the moron.
You didn’t read the thread but you thought you were smart enough to insult me. BRAIN FAIL
Moron indeed !!
Hahaha
I would deffinitely (quote) ‘1. Think some more.!!’
It’s a lot of work for the probablity that you will ruin a good board.
Light boards are great and if you’re worried about the board snapping, just ride it. Maybe it snaps, if it snaps you can fix a broken board and now it’s heavy, yay!!
Get a new blank and glass it. Lessons learned.
Swearing and calling people names on the forum does not help your social acceptance, your ability to make friends and get good advice.
I like to leave the screws in the box just below the surface because it’s a lot easier to back them out than to screw them back in after sanding.
I either use a putty that I got when I ordered Proboxes, or melt some candle wax over the screw holes. You could fill FCS slots with wax or flour covered with melted wax.
Once the resin is set, cut the slot and the holes with a sharp razor I leave the glass there until after the fill coat, then use a utility knife to cut it out and clean up the slot. I take a scratch awl or ice pick to clean out the screw hole.
I’ve glassed over long center fin boxes and proboxes this way without problems.
Heavy glass seems to be a case of diminishing returns - it just gets WAY WAY heavier very quickly while getting minimally stronger. My experience is that a really well done light glass job is WAY stronger than a half-assed heavier one. Maybe try using your whole ass …