One thing that might have helped is not switching layers because taping over an already glassed layer isn’t easy. To do it that way I would press down on the tape very well and maybe use 3m 233+ which is super chemical resistant.
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Have you been drinking?
Looks like he was well in the bag when he drew the outline.
Did the outline come off a Morey Swizzle?
Mike, Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll take a good look at the pinline how too posts. Can you expand on the template comment? I’m in the Midwest and don’t have many opportunities to see other boards. Thanks again!
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Can you expand on the template comment? I’m in the Midwest and don’t have many opportunities to see other boards.
Surfboard curves are supposed to be ‘‘fair’’ lines, without bumps or straight spots. While you don’t get to see a lot of boards
in the midwest, you have access to all the curves in the world through the magic of sites like this and manufacturers sites as well.
Take advantage of it. Or you can do it the old fashioned way and lay out some #'s on a suitable material (not paper) and use a
batten to connect the dots with a fair line. If you can’t connect your #'s with a fair line, change the #'s, not the line.
Mike
Don’t use blue painters tape for laps, or anything for that matter. That stuff is horrible. I use 3M 233 or 3m 233+ for taping pinlines or laps. Look for it online or at an auto body supply place. If you are taping off on fiberglass remember to rub it down really good so you get a good bond. Making sure the tape, board, and room is reasonably warm (65-70) is helpful too.
-Jon
First of all, where’s the takeout? No Pizza hut?
Second, Mike already answered the template question, but I made these little drawings to illustrate (almost charicatures really):
not so curvy:
curvy:
Average them out and you get a killer noserider.
That being said, your board will work, better than a piece of plywood (though that worked OK) and might even work well.
–BCo
Hey Bigshow,
Welcome to Sways. I think Mike’s referring to the flat shape of the outline on each side of the board. From the pics it looks like the board is flat on each side with some abrupt rounding on the nose and tail rather than a continuous contour…
Thanks guys. Ya, the sides are flat. I thought that most nose riders had broad snouts. I was attempting to make the nose broad. In doing so my lines one the computer got very flat. There are probably some purists or surfing fundamentalists that think that computers to design a surf board is bad form, and that a surf board shape should be something that you feel. However computers are one of the tools I know best. Also I have a design that I can tweak for the next time. I’m sure you have that with templates too.
I was looking at a Walden Compact Disk that Matt E. found. I suspect the board is short for a long board – does that make sense. The front and tail seemed square-ish too me.
Again thank for the observations and suggestions guys and I’ll see what I can do to cleanup this board. I have another blank to play with I’ll post my plans here before getting started with the next one.
There’s so much really good information on this site. I was looking for pin lining information and found good block plan sharpening information.
About the Pizza Hut boxes. After putting in a lot of hours on the Pizza Hut board my wife said something like “Your not going to put card board boxes on the next board are you; you should put some better looking art on it.” So now I put some color on this board and made huge errors in the process. Either way this project has been fun and a great new experience. I’m thinking pin lines on the deck of the next board.
Hey Matt, looks like I found another addictive hobby, surfboard building:)
Hi Bigshow,
You can also take acrylic paint pens and make pinlines around the pigment areas that squeezed through the tape and are on the clear background. Makes it look like you “planned it that way.” Does that make sense? Mike
Howzit Bigshow, If it’s pigment then try using razor blade to srape off the pigment. You could also try some styrene or acetone to cut the pigment, but a razor blade works really well since you can get into the weave with the pointed corner of the blade. Aloha,Kokua
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Howzit Bigshow, If it’s pigment then try using razor blade to srape off the pigment. You could also try some styrene or acetone to cut the pigment, but a razor blade works really well since you can get into the weave with the pointed corner of the blade. Aloha,Kokua
Finally, a real pro laminator comes on this thread.
Bigshow, listen to whatever kokua sez, cuz he knows this stuff.
Surfboards are glassed bottom then deck for a reason , and have for a long time. everyone tries to think of new and better ways to glass however this is the one process that when experimented with fails. Tape off the deck , lam bottom trim lap lam deck. can’t go wrong. doesn’t matter if you have a board made of plastercine or polyurethane that is the process that works.
Mike, I generally knew that you start from the bottom first but I wanted to put two full layers of glass on the deck. I should have put a deck patch and full layer on. That’s a lesson learned the hard way.
Kokua, That was great advice!! Thanks! I cleaned up all of the spots on the deck. I have one spot and the nose that didn’t come out very well.
A box of blades and a test spot.
Can you still see the spot? I can’t!
The cleaned up tail.
I haven’t done anything with the cut line yet.
Here’s the nose before
and the nose after
Looks much better. A nice fat pinline will hide the rest. Keep it up,
-Jon
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Surfboards are glassed bottom then deck for a reason , and have for a long time. everyone tries to think of new and better ways to glass however this is the one process that when experimented with fails. Tape off the deck , lam bottom trim lap lam deck. can’t go wrong. doesn’t matter if you have a board made of plastercine or polyurethane that is the process that works.
And since the colored lap is usually on the bottom layer, you won’t sand through it. Be careful sanding, because when the color is on top, you run a high risk of sanding through and having to go back in to touch up.
I mixed up a small dab of white tinted epoxy and lightly touched a few spots that I couldn’t get completely clean.
White-out get’s the spot out
I just added some rice paper art and the last layer of glass.
Lance, I just laid up another layer of glass on the deck and lapped over to the bottom. So the fist layer for get sanded will be a clear deck layer. Does that take care of the problem?