using just masonite and the input from my semi-steady hand.
What kind of saw do you use for best temp cutting?
If you are Using a Jigsaw,
Take the time to analyze your setup
I am a big fan of jigsaws, however alot depends on the blade and the machine your using.
For Blades I use these 5 inch bosch blades that are really stiff with like no flex at all. Model 7345xf.
I also Have a higher of the line Skil and a ridgid both have noplay in the base. I have an cheaper skil that if you hold it upside down and pull the blade it will swing left to right about a 1/4 inch on each side. Thats 1/2 inch of play.
Look into those variables.
The mother of jigsaws… they don’t come cheap but they are sooooo amazing…
this might sound strange but I’ve been using a cordless 5" circular saw and it cuts templates quite well.
I have it to the point where I barely need to clean up the cut.
Further, when I handshape, I cut the blank with the same saw. Makes a really nice, clean, vertical cut.
The blade does not swim.
Tight curves like longboard noses, etc. req several small cuts then just clean up w/sanding block…
Damn, I went super cheap at Sears–their lowest Craftsman–didn’t think about play
So how do you sand out the bumps and lows and stuff, or should I just cut another one? Should I maybe using a handsaw with a wide blade?
(That thing sorta reminds me of the creature in Alien – maybe it’s the fact that you said it was the “mother” though…hmmm, no, it just does)
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this might sound strange but I’ve been using a cordless 5" circular saw and it cuts templates quite well.
I have it to the point where I barely need to clean up the cut.
Further, when I handshape, I cut the blank with the same saw. Makes a really nice, clean, vertical cut.
The blade does not swim.
Tight curves like longboard noses, etc. req several small cuts then just clean up w/sanding block…
I’m with PlusOne, I just use my skilsaw, I adjust the cutting depth to a little past an 1/8" and cut right on the line. When you adjust the depth, you can also cut tight curves… like LB noses. Another awesome tool for cleanup is a belt sander with a medium grit… using those tools I can knock out a new template in about 10 minutes. About as long as it takes for me to template a board. 
I have to say though, a nice sharp, slightly flexible handsaw is up there too… make sure it has pretty small teeth… piece of cake. In my opinion it’s more about how you hold the piece of material that you are making the template out of… I usually have 4 or so 5lb weights that I arrange as needed that I can adjust rapidly. I used to lay the template on a blank that was about the same size at the template that I was making. Sort of a curved table… I just use a table now though, more solid. Oh, and another good idea is to have the guys at the lumber yard cut your (usually) 4X8 sheet of whatever you choose into 1X8 strips, makes everything that much more manageable. -Carl
well i got one thing right…
might have to do a sander here
I saw one (Craftsman) that was an orbital with a rectangular plate, 1/3 sheet size, like eight inches long, also a little dust vac
would that work?
And how do you know when it’s (rocker temp) “good enough?”
I would recommend a belt sander that way you have longer lines and more surface area. This ones a Ryobi cheapie from home depot. but orbital sanders IMHO are good pretty much only for ding repair. The belt sander you can use to clean up templates, shape in concaves and many more uses.
Any time you can splurge a bit more on a tool its going to better for your overall results.
I use a jigsaw no prob. And it’s actually a pretty cheap black and decker…works great. You just need to go slow as to follow the line accurately. Also, make sure the masonite is clamped down. What i do is i drag my shaping racks outside. I have a funshape template i made out of plywood once apon a time. I will lay down the ply-temp on the racks, then i put my masonite on that so that the line i’m going to cut is maybe an inch past the edge of the ply, so that i have support underneath very close to the line i’m cutting. Otherwise you will get the whole piece of masonite flopping when you’re trying to cut.
Salut Balsa!
Do you have the Festool sander? I am considering it but it too is very expensive but my B&D excenter is just totally screwed up…
this one has a excenter mode and a “fixed” orbit mode and variable speed. I think that makes it interesting for both polishing and sanding… what do you think?
just take your time with the cut janklow
dont rush and perhaps buy a better quality blade
it will work sweet
i like they idea of the circular saw that would be neat as hell.
i just find them a bit noisy and mean for the spare room
if your cutting eps
a 1$ extendable craft knife is fast
and no dust or crumbs
also im finding my cheap 15 dollar jigsaw to be great for templates
i use it for fins as well
though before that, a backcut japanese handsaw was brilliant
(mines broke)
i prefer handtools over powertools
quiet,relaxing and peaceful
better for a creative atmosphere.
and I can build a board anywhere without disturbing anyone.
they are pretty quick for most applications
in fact i find surform or hotwire is faster than elec planer for eps rail bands
and handsaw is just as fast then a jigsaw for outline and templates
block planes feel good and are quiet to tidy up curves
hand jointers work brilliant.
lately ive been thinking to get really thin template material ;like plastic.
maybe 1 to 2 mm
something i can cut with a curve and exacto knife really quick
use old template as ruler guides for the knife
basically for compsands and eps, elec planers are obsolete as they do nothing to improve production times
and are a pretty clumsy tool compared to a template and hotwire
i know ,i know the sacred icon ,rah rah and all that jazz
just cant see much use for one with modern materials and techniques
(other than repair work)
the cheapest jigsaw you can find will do the job on the soft stuff.
wow
Great post for me Paul–I may print that
soul in it (for a Swaylock’s addict)
re-evaluating my coal-fired tools here
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Salut Balsa!
Do you have the Festool sander? I am considering it but it too is very expensive but my B&D excenter is just totally screwed up…
this one has a excenter mode and a “fixed” orbit mode and variable speed. I think that makes it interesting for both polishing and sanding… what do you think?
I reckon that this Festool model is known as “Rotex” here and i’ve heard plenty of good things about it (as about most Festool tools, anyway) but no, I don’t have one. I have a classic sander/polisher by Ryobi, two speeds. The day it decides to break down, I will probably invest into something with a variable speed.
3 or 4 of us here have them
I have the ROTEX 125 which is the 5" and as far as dust free sanding they are unmatched when paired with the Festools trigger initiated vacuum which I also have. It won’t power through a poly or epoxy laminations and resin coats like an 8" Milwaukie but they have a certain finesse about them that speaks of their heritage.
Very versatile as well a woodworkers favorite I’m sure
Been eyeing up their jig for sometime now probably around $350+ USD ro as much as a modified clark hiatchi
They make really good wood tools of all kinds in Germany.
The best spokes model they have currently demoing the tools is DIY’s Amy Devers on her show Freeform Furniture which precedes David Marks on Wood Works. Two of my favorite new TV shows along with Handmade Music
Amy Devers… good to see a lady at home in a fabrication shop made up for the kill
From David Marks 's Wood Works DIY show a copper inlaid table
Howzit janklow, When you say expensive you not kidding, that Festool saw runs about $400 her on Kauai. 2 of the guys I work with have them and swear by them.Aloha,Kokua
Festool also makes an excellent planer with helical blade (very silent and effective) and a rotating handle depth of cut adjustment that pretty much looks like a motorcycle gas-handle. The back (main) handle is very straight, making it quite well suited for surfboard shaping.
BUT the price is currently around 480€…
Probably much less than a Skill 100, after all, and readily available, but still…
This might seem simplistic (maybe even fatalistic), but I pretty much accept the fact that I’m not going to get a finished template with my rough cut. I cut with my old pawn-shop jigsaw at least 1/8" outside the line I’ve marked, and then clean it all up with a sanding block. Often, once I’ve spent the time to sight down the curved edge a few zillion times and chase out all the lumps with a long sanding block, I wind up with a template that doesn’t exactly match the line I’ve drawn, but is smoother and cleaner than it would have been if I had ridden the line without any error.
Just my dos centavos.
Ah. Now that makes sense. Just stay outside the line.
Although I was getting better when I started going faster. And putting on pants instead of shorts helped (mosquitoes)
I got an outline and two rockers done, though
Now I see why my shaper drew a fish off non-fish temps he already had, too.
Damn you balsa, damn you…
That planer looks pretty sexy,
then come to find out theres a dealer right off a freeway exit I pass daily. I am going to go check it out Wednesday.
Its 430.00