Help, Planer blades are crooked

I have a Ryobi planer that since I bought it, has always cut at an angle. I thought it was the blades and have gone and changed them several times, trying to get them set straight. After a little more in depth probing I think it’s the entire barrel that’s at an angle. Any ideas on how to fix this? Currently I’ve been holding the entire planer at an angle when I cut, which is probably not the most accurate thing. I’ve got two boards to finish in the next couple of days and would really like to be able to do this right.

Any suggestions? I’m really tempted to just buy another planer, but definitely can’t afford a hitachi or a skil. Were this for something that doesn’t need as much accuracy I wouldn’t care, but I can’t skin a blank without needed to go back and sand the entire thing flat.

You might take it to one of the manufacturers service centers for evaluation/repair. Or warrantee replacement, if defective.

Rachel, I have two Chinese knock-offs of Makita planes that are both a little kapakahi (crooked). If you don’t have recourse to a warranty correction, here’s what I have done. Hope this comes across in comprehensible manner.

I don’t think your barrel axis is out of parallel with the planer base, but it could be. Correction #1 below can at least partially fix that.

  1. First, you have to set the blades so their edges are flush with the rear platen (the “shoe” or “foot”) of the planer. I put a small straight edge on the platen at each end of the blade, so that the blade touches the straight edge, then tighten the setscrews that hold down the blade(s).

  2. The problem with each of my knockoffs is that the front, adjustable-depth platen is not in the same plane as the rear. I assume this is your planer problem, it makes the planer cut deeper along one side. What I have done is clean the front platen with solvent (acetone) then find a clean flat surface larger than the planer, such as a piece of glass. Set the planer on the glass and lessen the depth of cut so the front platen just barely touches the glass. You may see the front platen doesn’t come down flat on the glass - there’s the problem. Put a piece of wax paper on the glass where the front platen sits. Smear some epoxy filler (I used JB Weld but any thick epoxy would do, thicken using cabosil or similar if needed)on the front platen and set it down on the glass. Some filler should squeeze out to the sides. Let it all cure then remove from the glass, and trim the excess. Your planer will be lined up better than new.

Now is a good time to round off the leading and side edges of the platen, using a big file. Smooth filed edges with 180 or 220 grit.

Next time you consider buying a planer (or next time you see one for sale and can handle it) check both above situations. Are the blades correctly set with respect to the rear platen? After adjusting to zero depth, Is the front platen in the same plane as the rear?

Its a manufactures defect

Mine is the same way and same planer

I ground my front shoe down to even it up

Ive inspected mine and it the plastic case that is molded crooked

you could correct it the way Honolulu says

probably is a better way

I had to reset the adjuster on mine

Howzit Rachel, If you bought it recently then return it for a new one ( you now know what to check for ) or get your money back.Nothing like having a useless tool just sitting around taking up space.Aloha,Kokua

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Nothing like having a useless tool just sitting around taking up space.Aloha,Kokua

So you’ve met my brother in law ?

I have the exact same problem with my cheap generic planer, tho I imagine it’s gotten a knock or two as I don’t remember it being as bad as it is now the last time I was using it. Thanks for the instruction on how to fix it.

regards,

Håvard

Kokua, I got this one for Christmas last year so I’m pretty sure it’s been too long to return it.

Upon closer inspection the back and front shoes don’t line up on a horizontal plane. To fix it I’d probably do what has been suggested with epoxy and qcell. I used it on two boards this week and just worked around the problems. I even used it on the rail bands and finally realized what Jim Phillips said about the planer being the most accurate tool a shaper can have. To save my house from being perpetually covered in foam dust I’ve decided to quit this whole shaping thing, which is proving harder than I thought because it really is an addiction. I love glassing though, so I’m moving from foam dust to resin blobs.

Thanks for all the help, hopefully other people with this same problem will have a way to fix it now.

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I even used it on the rail bands and finally realized what Jim Phillips said about the planer being the most accurate tool a shaper can have.

I hope Jim reads this. It’ll make his day.

Good on you for taking the jump.

Rachel, don’t quite just because of foam dust…

dooooooon’t.

hot wire cutter?

box fan, cardboard box, and a furnace filter?

piece of tack cloth taped down at the doorway?

I haven’t made the jump to using a planer yet,

but so far the only way foam dust doesn’t follow me in from the garage is if shop-vac wielding girlfriend meets me at the front door before I go in.

We’ve got the hotwire cutter, the box fan (for those pesky poly resin fumes that like to linger for weeks) and a top of the line furnace filter.

I shall have to try the tack cloth in the doorway. Problem is I actually work inside the house, in the “basement” if you can call it that in these weirdly designed houses. I usually vacuum myself off then shower in the bathroom that’s about a foot away then put on clean clothes. Most of the mess is contained in the back room.

I just don’t find a lot of fun in the shaping process. I glassed the bottom of a fish today and just did a sunburst swirl inlay. Sooo much more fun!

Howzit Rachel, The world needs glassers also. Now you’ll know how to shape and glas, best of both worlds. I am mainly a glasser but can shape, I just hate foam dust in my nose,eyes, ears, hair,etc.Aloha,Kokua

awww, come ONNNN.

Foam dust is just the way to know it’s time to go surf! Bodysurfing a pitchy sandy shorebreak in particular will really clean you up. Makapuu, Sandy Beach, Ehukai, Log Cabins… and it will get you more tube time than almost anything else out there.

You have a year by law…Return it for a new one…or find a flat ,hard surface.Loosen the blades slightly and let the flat surface level them/tighten them back up and walla!..That’s what I do…Works everytime !

H

R,

Sorry, if I let you down by buying a Fit.

Rachael,

Life is too short to feel compelled to do things you don’t like… Maybe its just the conditions/limitations you are currently working under…?

I used a planer (hitachi) on some of my eps blanks - spewed statically charged eps foam all over the place… stuck to the ceiling, walls… I went back to hand tools - sanding blocks, planes after that. I walled off a little room - perhaps you could do the same with some sheet plastic - and build a “air filter” using a box fan, a wooden box, and 4 good funace filters. I have a Sears shopvac with one of those gortex filters in them for cleanup. With 2 little kids in the house I am realy paranoid about spewing dust all around - especially when I sealed a blank with using microballons.

I just do it for fun though - I enjoy the “imperfect” nature of sculpting things out of foam or wood compared to my day job of telling computers what do do & where you have to be 100% exactly right all of the time… Its relaxing for me, but then its just a hobby.

Its great you know how to do both shaping and glassing, be proud of your experience, pick what you love in life & go for it wholeheartedly… enjoy the ride - its to short as it is.