Eh Lowell
Ya know I loves ya!
But no.
Not Infiniies or “Pakala’s”
That and Hanalei was why I traveled there.
Just happened to see some guys pulling out of a cane road.
Whipped a bitch and bombed down to the end.
First serious surf as I was JOJ.
never bought it, was good size and pipeline like
With a damn nasty bottom.
That was 72!
Oh as for the then uncrowed and ruled with respect primo secret spot
Have had some of my best of the best going backside there
Pay great honor to Unca Merlin
Been back many times and made friends
And have explored
one day haeded to the Robinson “pakala” village
Peppy sand, hum, Trash pile more like it, Iron woods?
Cane fieilds gone…
I know it an’t shipwrecks.
I’m goin’ with Amby.
Eh, 72, big but respectful nobreath
Walked from Russian fort to Infinties.
I was just lucky parking where I did
surfing Trash pile back then.
Funny met a full blooded Hawaiian
His older brother was a Robinson “cowboy”
More than once I ditched it into the brush.
he told me I was one lucky Haole…
Oh that’s a 7-4 Liddle!
Here’s last go & 9-0
Mahalo, Aloha