personally i would sand it hard up to open bubbles too and do an other glass, just for ego purpose…LOL
But i don’t think it’s a drama an opaque finish for cosmetic should be good.
No surf here in France. End of stay at home 11 may but i don’t think virus start his holidays this day…
ok, so I already have the feeling that I’ve learned a lot from all your comments. Huck, Lemat, don’t worry, I won’t complain or blame you if anything goes wrong here; In the end it’s my decision… and McDing, gbzausa and JohnnyK3, thank you for chiming in, your comments are very sensible although I might throw caution to the wind…
I still haven’t decided what to do. I have carefully sanded the lam, but only to a point where all the shine is gone and then some. That hasn’t opened any bubbles yet. I’ll either go on sanding more heavily or leave it like that and cover with some more pigment. I will let you know as soon as I’ve decided what to do…and I’ll take some pics.
What kind of temperature drop did the board experience overnight? I’m just a hobbiest but my guess is that you had a good lam, but the falling temperatures sucked resin into the EPS blank leaving air bubbles between glass layers. I would do as others pointed out - a cheater coat with a strong pigment followed by a good thin hotcoat with the same pigment. It’ll be a solid board for a long time.
This was my thinking also - that the resin got sucked into the blank leaving the glass dry. Lemat mentioned this in his comment - to seal the blank before glassing so it doesn’t suck resin in falling temps, or outgas with rising temps. I would still prefer to glass in dropping temps, but I would think a resin sealed blank would be far less likely to end up with dry glass.
A lot of Pro-glassers use a cheater coat, but just as many don’t. Finish the board and ride it. Live and learn. Overall, it is a nice board. Funny but if there are issues in a tint, it’s always a blue tint. I suppose the problem might even be “Crystalization”. It will be a nice rider. Get er done. Lowel
Probably too late here, but when I read “dry spots” that need attention, I was expecting to see a serious problem.
Other than you own knowledge and a little visual - I’m firmly in the camp of: Carry on, finish it off, wax it up, go ride it!!
I’ve seen dry weave on professional production boards…
Again, thanks for the sound advice everyone!
However, I have to admit that I was in the “if it was my board I would sand it out” camp. I didn’t want to live with those spots.
I promised to show up with pictures and a report - so here you are.
Sanding: I took an 80 grid disc on an orbital sander. When i sanded into the first layer, the dry spots were still visible. I had to take away the full top layer (board was glassed with 2 x 6oz). Problem here is that it’s pretty difficult to see were the first layer stops and the second layer begins. Especially with glass dust flying everywhere. I do have a good mask, but it’s still a loud and itchy nightmare…
There were two spots where I sanded through which I patched with glass and a bit of blue tint in the resin - they are still visible. But it’s under the back foot. (first pic)
I put on another layer of 6oz, lightly tinted, which i overlapped with the laps (1cm) (pic 2). Here you can also see how bad I was with the tape 
I put on a cheater coat about half an hour after the lam. No bubbles and dry spots! I also used the more expensive glass, which is easier to wet out…
After the cut and some sanding I added a leash loop… I always leave the glass of the loop haning down and only slightly sand it around the tail. This way the tail is nicely protected…
Wow, that’s looking like a successful salvage.
I was totally in the “wax it up as it was” camp. I’m impressed.
