I need to redo a 12" stripe/band that wraps the board. I have made my repairs from a delam, now I need to redo the stripe then resin over it. What is the best type paint to use? Water based only ? specific brands and were to get would be great! I have extensive exp. with air brush and HVLP spray guns or can I use spray bombs?
thanks,
Nick
Do a search… lots of info regarding paint.
Common answer is to use acrylics, however, I had a recent problem with an acrylic pinline (my first time using acrylic paint under resin). After painting, peeling the tape, then spending hours with a blade and sandpaper cleaning the pinline perfectly, it peeled and lifted in small areas when I did a resin coat on top. After sanding it clean and preparing to redo the pinline, I found the small areas where it lifted, resin had gotten under the paint, and some areas of the paint were’nt perfectly dry (this was after waiting 24hrs).
Now I’m considering either redoing the pinline in resin, or spray with rattlecan.
These two recent threads discusses pinlining, paint and methods:
http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1015434
http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1028778
Should be enough there to help you make a decision.
I think I’m gonna go for a quickdry acrylic laquer spaycan; less messy than the resin.
If I were you, I would go for it with Resin. Make it super opaque. Sand the area really good. Don’t forget to add wax. If you’ve got Cobalt, use it. Then, you won’t need to gloss over it if you don’t want to. It will look way better than paint. Only my humble opinion. It’s about the same amount of work as using paint.
Oops, didn’t mean to post twice. No option to remove posting anymore!
novocolor
Hey Leslie, I’ve done resin pinlines before. They do look great, but it’s a lot harder to clean small masking bleeds than paint. Either way, I’m happy with doing both. Will decide when I get there. Just bummed the acrylic tube paint didn’t work. It looked good, even after coating, then it slowly started peeling… so frustrating.
Retrorider, didn’t mean to highjack your thread…
Liqutex jar paints found at any art supply store or Novacolor http://novacolorpaint.com by mail order. Some of the color like the Phthalos are transparent so you will need to add white to them to make them opaque.
This is the way I go about it:
Wash your hand with soap and water to remove any skin oil or grease (specially if you just ate lunch).
Sand the area to be painted.
Remove the sanding dust by blowing it off with compressed air. Check to make sure that there’s not any unsanded shinny spots or oily finger prints.
Mask the area to be painted.
Spray the paint on. Try of achieve uniformity/ opacity with the thinnest possible coating of paint.
You can let it air dry or use a heat gun or blow drier to dry the paint. Be careful when you’re using heat not to over do it and cause the paint to blister or crack (don’t hold the gun too close or for too long on one area).
When dry, remove the tape then light sand with a scotchbrite pad or 400 grit.
Remove the residual sanding dust with compressed air.
When glossing add some extra surfacing agent to you gloss resin (it helps the gloss resin flow out better over the painted area).
Here’s an example of a board I painted years ago at the Channin factory, done completely with Novacolor on the sanded hotcoat (including the fin and fillet).
Luckily Brimo, the guy who glossed and polished it is a master at what he does.
can the paints from novacolor be thinned and used with an HVLP spray gun? I asume they are water based? any thoughts on rattle can covered in resin. Thanks!
They’re water based acrylics and yes you can add water to reduce their viscosity. Just don’t add too much water because it will weaken the acrylic binder in the paint and since water doesn’t flash/evaporate as fast as solvents, things can get too wet real quick and you may have some problems with the paint bleeding under the tape. BTW always burnish the tape edges down with something stiff like a tongue deppressor or a credit card.
I personally don’t use an HVLP gun but I think it would work fine.
A guy I worked with tried using Krylon enamel rattle can paint on restoration he was working on and had problems with the gloss separating. Maybe he didn’t sand the paint before he glossed it. A long time ago Cleanlines posted a tutorial here on Sways on how to do faux marbled panels with Krylon enamels that was quite nice. You might try doing a search for it.