10-4!
I’ve one board that’s ready for the final sanding & polishing, but I’ll finish sanding and “glossing” the other 7 before I move on to that stage.
Skip the 120, copy that.
Another question: I’ve noticed that when I do 400 wet sand, there’s always streay scratches that show my shitty pattern. Do I polish 220,320, 400 all by machine?
Thanks!
Also, by “post-cure” how much time are we talking about?
Thanks.
Howzit castrillo, Just dry sand them and you won't have as much cutting marks in the finish. I quit doing wet sanding eons ago and really like dry sanding better. Water and electricity really aren't good friends and there is always the possibility of electrical shock and believe me I have been there before and it isn't fun. Aloha,Kokua
when im sanding ill do it all with a machine, once i get to 320 paper i use my soft pad, when sanding with the 400 you have to lower the rpm’s on your sander and slow it down, keep on moving the sander around and try not to heat up the paper to much, and like kokua said its best if you dry sand with the 400, its much essayer to see what is going on and by only sanding up to 400 your still gona see some scratches but it will be a decent enough finish
you can get the scotchbrite in 8" discs here:
http://surfsource.net/store/category/sanding_finishing/
you can either glue them to an old power pad or put then on a velco type disc
i like to use the red ones with no polish - gives a nice matte finish and will hide most scratches. the grey one is finer and will give more shine
if you use some polish with them, they will give that really nice even satin finish and the polish will help hide any spots where you hit the fiberglass. but your sanding has to be spot on, as this finish will show off any lumps or sanding scratches
I’ve been fixing a few bloopers on almost every single board I’ve sanded so far.
Disc scratches, sand-throughs, bumps near the bottom rail lines, etc.etc.
I wanna have all of those fixed before doing the final “hot coat” and sanding/polishing.
Thanks!
Hello.
I finished putting the final hotcoat/“gloss” on the 8 boards. They are going to be post-curing for at least a few weeks.
I also just finished restorating a 1989 T&C by a guy named “Stritch”. I took care of all the dings and then I re-hotcoated the whole thing, and sanded 220, 320. Then I put some spray acrylic/enamel on the parts which showed the fiberglass. I ended up spraying almost the whole board. I then wet-sanded with dishwashing soap with a 400 paper. Then I used the 3M rubbing compound and the soft hairy pad. I still have a lot to learn about polishing with rubbing compound and the corresponding pad. But the job came out pretty decent.
Hey Kokua: I used the acrylic spray cans on that T&C, sprayed practically the whole board. It works!! Thanks for your help man.
castrillo can u put some pics of ur result? (tio regalate unas fotos)
he best way to learn how to do things is watching videos and pictures.
cheers
Si se~or. No hay problema.
But it’s gonna take a little while until I get my camera into action.
Saludos desde Puerto Rico!!!
Sup guys got a few questions for you please, am using lam resin to glass my boards and the resin is always endeing up sticky so sanding is turning out to be a bitch, am using about 2% catalyst, question one - once ive glassed and its sticky is there anything i can do to get rid of the stickness so i can sand it without going through a kilometer of sandpaper and question 2 - in future how can i avoid this, the current tempreture is around 21c, do i add more catalyst, use a different resin or what? cheers yeeowww
**casrtillo **y las fotos? jajaja
Uhhhh. Im going to respond in case this is a legit question. YOu cant sand lam resin. At all. Look up hotcoat. And if youre hotcOating already use sandin resin. Not lam resin. You CAN add styrene to lam resin if you want as well. That turns it into sanding resin.
Actually the styrene just thins the resin, you need a styrene/pariffin wax solution to mix with your filler/hot coat and gloss coats for sanding. (I’m not sure of the ratio of styrene/wax)
Avoid using styrene in your lam coats though as it can/will weaken the resin.
With hot and gloss coats the wax rises out of the resin and forms on top to seal out the air and allow it to set properly so you can sand it.
Cheers,
Mick.
Sorry bud, you can sand lam resin, its not as easy as hot coat but its totally doable. Thats how we sand laps. and any drips. We use either roloc discs or cloth backed paper we can clean with acetone. Rolocs last like 20 boards for a buck and the cloth backed paper goes a long way to. I just had to sand the entire rails on a resin swirl to get the colors even. Had no issues.
Styrene is a component of resin that adds viscosity… adding it to laminating resin alone will only give you…thinner laminating resin. You need a wax component or “Surfacing agent” for a hard sandable hotcoat.