Cutting plugs in soon and thought I check where I should be puting the fins plan is twinzer
The board is 6’7 x20.5 x3 n13.5 t16.5 will be used for 2-4ft fat beachys by a 90kg very average surfer.
was thinking 10.5 and 1.5 6deg cant and toed off the nose for the rears 8deg cant for fronts.
How much should they overlap?
Thanks Tom
pics of the board would help
from the Dynamic Balance 7’0" board shaped by Wil
Jobson, number 1614. The board has a 14.25 inch tail, looks kinda gunny,
I’m guessing 1993-95, only one channel each side, the center concave is
there but subtle compared to later models.
Main fin:
fin has a standard “dolphin” shape like most current thruster fin shapes.
Base width: 4 3/8" plus glass rope
Depth: 4 7/8"
Toe-in: 1/4" on the 4 3/8" base
Distance from tail to rear of fin: 8 5/8" not including glass rope
Distance from rail to center rear base of fin: 1 1/4"
Cant: I didn’t have a proper tool. Looks 3-4 degrees
Twinzer lead fin:
Toe-in: parallel to main fin
Cant: 2-3 degrees MORE than main fin.
Distance from rear of board to rear of fin: 13"
Fin base: 2 3/4"
Fin depth: 2 3/4"
Fin has a raked ellipse shape
Perpendicular distance from base of main fin to base of twinzer lead fin: 1 3/8"
Overlap from twinzer to main fin, measured parallel to the stringer: 3/8"
Twinzer
is mounted WITHOUT FIN ROPE, so that the fin makes a sharp edge with
the deck. Wil felt this was important on the twinzer lead, but not on
the main fin. He mounted them in Q-cell plus resin, and there is a lot
of ding repair work remounting them (the ding repair guys usually use
fin rope).
Awesome thank you
Pics sould be there now.
2nd board so far from perfect, reshaped windsurfer blank
epoxy and has hot coat but havn’t sanded it
yet. The odd missing looking bit at the tail is green resin.
