I wanted to buy Austrian Foam XPS 2400600180mm… but was to lazy to search any longer…I would have cut it in half anyways…so maybe to prevent me from not cutting it in half I bought the first XPS foam I could find in a good thickness. This happened to be 1200600100mm Glascofoam. The only drawback is that it is made using CO² whereas Austrotherm is made using air only. The color is better though…not pink, not blue but some kind of light brown. I can’t find the old thread anywhere? I guess it really got lost on the way to the archives. I have semi-decided on a shape… A squash to pintail and hard edges on the tail are for sure. I will make it thinner than your normal 6.25cm minimal shape…maybe only 4.5 to 5 cm. 48cm wide…10cm front rocker, 4cm tail rocker. outlines will assemble a hybrid between minimal and fungun. A little retro style…the design will also be kind of retro. Finsetup: thruster. I don’t want to spent so much money so I will turn the FCS plugs from aluminium which I get for free…will take some time but doesn’t cost me a €cent… Then I’ll use fins from my shortboard. the middle part is still going to be the most work…too bad that there are not more traveling surfers/shapers that need tileable boards and have already done it.
will resins stick to aluminium? i know a guy who makes his own fcs plugs by wrapping strands of glass that are soked in uv cure resin around the fin tabs. he then “uv’s” the mess until he has six “rough” plugs, then he install them as you would regular fcs plugs and after sanding drills and taps a hole for a set screw. it works insane. he has made me two boards with them and they have stood up to some seriouse abuse…free plugs and a chance to recycle some leftover fiberglass…
How about selling that picture on ebay to make you some money to buy some fin plugs?
selling which picture? The one on the wall? [smile]) thats not worse one FCS plug… Epoxy bonds to every surface if it’t rough enough and clean. I can turn grooves around the plug and grind it a little so that it is not perfectly round… The FCS plugs are not high tec anyway…I guess they are even the worse fins system out there…future box would be much harder to copy. I just happen to have FCS fins and don’t want to spent another 50€ on plugs and fins. cheers Marcus
G’day Marcus, I’m glad your project is getting underway. I don’t know the foam you mentioned, but you seem to know enough about it to know it will work. Can you heat that type of foam to bend up a little more nose lift in the first 100-200mm? To me this is a common drawback of using sqare blocks to make boards, add a little extra kick in the nose and it will look, and possibly go better. Again, use your other board as a general example. I like your fin plug idea, when some people see them they may want some. I know I would love machined aluminium fin boxes for my boards. I agree with you on the fcs quality. Actually combining machined poly(?) fin bases with a machined aluminium box I can see the future in adjustable knock-out fins, even pivoting. Obviously that’s with machine milled and moulded fins too, not the glorified hand foiled plastic pop-outs that are available today. I’m keeping my eye out for your future developments, go to it, and good luck, particularly with stage one. Greg.
Hi Greg. I don’t know if I can bend that foam…I will glue the two pieces together with a step…that way some extra 3-4cm rocker will fit into the foam. I only know what I have read so far about dimensions, I guess 10-12cm front rocker and 4cm tailrocker are common? I have bought some thermocutting wire today…have to get some kind of dimmer for my 12V trafo…it has 12A output…the wire only needs 1-2A [smile]) Have to consult my electric shop for that matter. Just tried 12Amp and the 0.3mm wire started to glow immediately…then I tried it with 1.5A (got a computer charger…but don’t want to waste that thing by cutting it short for a long time) and it cuts the foam perfectly clean…(one success a day makes a boy happy [wink]) just thinking to myself Maybe i will buy some cheap fixed-amp resistors…I could also use lamps to get less A…but I would need some of them, like 140watt consumming 12V electric device to get 1-2 Amp output… stop thinking here Then I need to get some scrapwood for making templates for hotwirecutting… How is it done? First cut the rocker curve and then the deck form? I am already searching for cool graphic designes [smile]) man…this is really fun. cheers Marcus
Doing the rocker or outline first is a good question. The answer is whatever you feel most comfortable. I found it nice to get the rocker reasonable first, then cutout the planshape. This way when the board outline is cut out you can see where all the thickness is distributed, where the curves are, and do adjustments from there. Just remember, try to make every line become one line, from the tip of the nose to the tip of the tail. Basicly, flattest part under your feet when standing, and thickest part under your belly when laying down. Taper everything else out from there. Not too thick or thin in the nose or tail. Taper some thickness out from the centre of the board to the rails. Keep checking out your other board as you go. You don’t have to copy it but learn from it and adapt. Most of all have fun. Greg.