looks like the mega-south has arrived?
kirk
Kirk,
I think Kokua lives on the North Shore.
Howzit kirk, Like pato says I live on the north side so I can’t give you an on the spot answer. But last nights news showed Oahus south side already on the rise and we should start getting it today. I have to do a dock run to pick up materials since I’ve been okayed to start working again. I ask around and find out what is happening. Aloha,Kokua
Howzit?!? Got the news- 8 Hawaiian feet and coming up. T is towing @ Tigers. Aloha…RH
I don’t think my 6’6" gonna handle that.
Kokua, do you have a longer board, bigger lungs and a spare set of balls for me to use when I get there?
I am in my classroom which overlooks the south shore from Portlock to Diamond head. It’s not 8ft yet. Id say solid 6 ft (12 ft faces) Still supposed to come up and get more consistent though. Looks like most spots are still breaking from here. Once it gets 8ft and over there are not many spots down here than can even handle the size without closing out. Trades are off and on, not too windy. I’m going to have to make a tough decision after school. Where do I go?!?!?! Too bad the entire island knows about it by now. Hopefully the size will keep most of the crowd on the beach.
of course they already downgraded the mega south… this moring the national weather page said 15-16 ft faces with larger sets… now it is reading 8-12 as high as 15 at “select” spots (faces)… south swells=hype… north shore was bigger yesterday with basically no mention… but a solid south as far as souths are concerned…
Shane Dorian in Tahiti. Cajones muy grande!
http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/2005_09_13_tahiti_dorian.cfm
I rode outer Old Man’s this morning. Long, long wait with nothing in between. A little funky but only moderate trades. Ricebowl going off but maybe a little big or not quite the best direction to be real nice. The wave-producing storm area was quite wide, per NOAA/NWS.
We had one set at about 8 a.m. that was double overhead, and a bit, but most was a little overhead. I’d love to have stayed longer, and want to go out tonight, but my folks (78 and 90-y.o.) are coming in and I have to do the host thing.
The big set cleaned out some un-named loons in a three-man canoe at Castles, I believe the Outrigger boat brought the remains of the canoe and loons to shore, I was gone by then. Ya can’t duck dive a 3-man canoe when the set comes, har har har… dumbass.
Couple or three years ago, Fred Hemmings, steering one of those canoes, took it on the chest and near cashed in his chips.
Howzit Honolulu, How’s 3’s looking, loved surfing there when it got big. Lived on the North Shore but worked at the Black Angus restaurant so we would either go to town early for an afternoon session before work or spend the night in town and do the early morning go out. Fond memories of great town waves.Aloha,Kokua
Howzit Rick just got a good deal from F.H., My order had a roll of 4 oz glass on it and when I ordered I told Cora to see if they had a short roll and instead they sent me a 260 yd roll. so I called and asked what happened and she said she was sorry and if I would keep the roll they would knock the price down to $1.83 a yd. Saved over $100, love it how they take care of us when they screw up orders.Aloha,K
It’s kicking A** in Ewa now the entire outer reef is breaking across from pearl harbor to barbers point.
Too bad CMP’s on the big island with his family missing out on some epic tow-ins outside his house.
Just got back from SFO and crashed out from jet/trip lag as SF is sure a busy and noisy place…
Any woke up at 4PM turned my phone on and got a ton of messages about the swell… Hauled a** to the beach and it was just closing out but shark country was epic with all the Ewa Beach pro’s were out tearing it up. I heard there were 50 guys out earlier getting rides from half a mile out to sea catching the outer reef white water reforms… Wish I brought my camera…
Caught one lucky 100 yarder out of 50 closeouts in a row and went in… The leg and knee is still very sketchy and painful so I was a little afraid of tweaking it again but my Terry Chung Kauai boys “fat Girl” didn’t let me down… Too bad my Gemini is at CMP’s needed that speed demon with all the closeout action…
For those that that know Oneula Park Chicken Creek was closing out from the sewer pipe rocks to haubush at about overhead around 100 yards out. Actually it was closing from the pill box to haubush alot of South/Southeast.
Its supposed to get bigger tomorrow and hopefully it’ll tame down on by the weekend and quit closing out by then all the “boys” will be surfed out and the weekend warriors can have a chance.
Unbelievable from the past month or so…
for those of you that ever want to know what the action looks like here, I’d suggest going over to Jaime Ballenger’s Website www.chunsreef.net where I got these gems from today’s south shore action. He always has some of the best up to date pics of the action day to day…
Bowls
Threes
Who says we don’t get size on the southshore…
Jamie’s the best…
I had a bit of a dilemma today. Living half way between the north and south shores makes it hard to decide where to go on a day like today. After seeing what the waves looked like yesterday, I took a chance on the north shore hoping it would’nt be too crowded since town was breaking. Did’nt pay off though, as the swell dropped and by the time I got out there this afternoon, it was in the 2-3ft with occasional 4footer coming thru. I ended up surfing Haleiwa with a lot of other people. Oh well, its off to Three’s tomorrow after work. Gosh it looked epic in the pics oneula posted.
Aloha kakahiaka Wildog! Not only a flurry of surf activity, but how about that monster storm last night? Good thing you live upstairs, but how did the dog-shop handle that massive rain? I haven’t seen that much lightning since last winter’s epic display. I heard on the radio that there’s a new # to call about bridge closures, but I never wrote it down. Good deal on the fabric. I saw a roll they sent John Del, the biggest roll of cloth I think I’ve ever seen. Stay dry! Aloha…RH
Howzit Rick, Shop[ was already flooded from the rain Tuesday night and I haven’t gone out to see how bad it is this morning yet but I’m sure it’s not pretty. Usually I have a barrier around it but I took our the racks last week to clean up resin mound and hadn’t rebuilt the barrier yet. Haena was getting soaked all day and last nights storm just added more. Funny thing was Hanalei was not as rainy as Haena yesterday during the day and Sausen said it was only eaining here during the day time. Ah just saw some sun outside. Aloha,K
Something is definitely making it all the way to Northern CA. I was out for about 2 hours, mid-day today in Marin, at a point that faces due south. Clean, glassy, shoulder high on the outside & a racy inside wall about chest high. Paddled waaaay outside to time some intervals between swells - a 4 wave set was 21,24,20 seconds in between…
Been 2 years since we got a solid long-period south all the way up here. Usually our seasonal north winds knock 'em on their heels just past Santa Cruz…
Hey Kokua
Too bad about Russell I know his uncle George Costa I think from school (two sons went to Kam)
Amazing how dangerous things can get so quickly here I hope you guys dry out soon.
Our Disaster Recovery guru has alarmed us about a Tropical Storm warning for this weekend for 75mph winds so take care…
Quote:
The swell that slammed the south shores of all islands may have claimed the life of a Kauai man, according to Kauai County. The body of Russell Alan Souza, 47, of Lawai, was found floating in the water off Poipu last night. A Kauai county spokeswoman said Souza appears to have drowned while surfing in front of the Beach House Restaurant at 6:30 p.m. No other details were available. he was a big charger so no kook
Here’s Alika Moeponopono (junior’s bro) on the wave of the day at Maalaea for those of you who know how intense this freight train is it’s incredible. Just check the guy on the shoulder pulling back Alika got so deep and came out…
Here’s a video capture of Ala Moana Bowls on Thursday… Man I can’t wait for tomorrow…
http://www.gigashare.com/files/embed/1334794350.html
Anyway all this brings on an interesting thought for me…
For all this experimentation new this new thing that epoxy this sandwich etc etc…
When the real sh*t hits the fan around here in hawaii we always seem to go back to our basics…
You know the Rawson/Bushman/Brewer/BK/Chung/Andrus hawaiian 7’0"-7’6" mini-gun or 8"-9" gun for them outer reef bombs… For those in the go it’s a Jet ski with a a high performance tow board…
But the basic premise is stiff sharp narrow and heavy pin or rounded pin with glass-on fins… You just don’t want to deal with this kind of stuff with anything else longboard, bonzer, fish, flexy, etc etc…
Somehow serious Hawaiian juice just demands a type of equipment to get you out of big time trouble, whether thats duckdiving 15’-20’ thick white water or getting pitched over with the lip in 25mph offshores while 15 yards of wall is pitching over your head. You need something that will plant, drive and blast through at mach 7 without getting squirrelly or sketchy…
Just on observation on all this new stuff…
sometimes mother nature just takes us back to the basics…
A heavily glassed, narrow rounded pin simple vee hawaiian mini-gun with glassed on fins does it for me everytime in these kind of life threatening conditions…
Again just a thought in the midst of chaos and joy…
Aloha brother Russell…
I know of many big time guys that almost bought the bullet the past two days as well. Amazing how many hardcore guys just got totally trashed by this swell…
Howzit oneula, Great pics of Maalaea, the Maui boys are in heaven. Yes it is a shame about Russel, this mornings Garden Isle paper says he was paddling back out after a wave and just passed out on his board. Other surfers went to his rescue and tried keeping his head above water but that didn’t help. They will do an autopsy and he probably had a heart attack or something similar but that’s just speculation on my part. They are going to have a moment of silence in respect for Russel at the women’s contest there this Sat. What a shame we lost a good person. Aloha,Kokua
A note on the round pins and guns theme: I was out at Castle’s early Thursday morning, with about 12 or 15 others. Half the crew brought out the gun boards you’d expect (including me, the board in my avatar); the others brought tankers. I saw Brewer tanks, there were plastic offshore tanks, just very few of the typical shortboards.
Castle’s is a deep water break, and you need a board with “range” to get there a half mile or so, range to paddle into a wave against the stiff side/offshores, range to penetrate or bulldoze through the chop coming up the face, and range to get you back to shore. Also a fair bit of sack, since the set waves were at least double overhead, call that what you will. Getting caught inside is a little disappointing…