I’ve been making all of my boards with opaque resins covering the entire board and I don’t plan on doing it differently any time soon. One problem is that the second cloth layer leaves a visible ridge on the bottom after it is finished. I’ve tried both cutting that second lap straight with a razor blade and leaving them uncut, but both ways still leave a mark where the lap ends. I’ve also tried sanding the ridge down, but it still doesn’t look right. I was told by a glasser that I may want to cut that lap real short so that it ends on the bottom edge of the rail and doesn’t ever actually fold onto the bottom of the board, but I feel that this will produce a board that is too weak. My only other idea is to reverse the applications of the cloth so that the second lap leaves the line on the top and then cover this line with a black pinline. Are these good ideas? I’ve looked through your archives before posting this message and couldn’t find anything that covered this. I’d be stoked to get some good advice. Thanks.
…Don’t cut the lap short,if your glossing ,just pinline it(maybe a flared pinner, if it’s a bad cut,you know,when you look down the cut ,and it’s so wavey it makes you sea sick).Reverse lapping as you described is a good way to go,just watch out for the “drying tork monster”.Herb
COuld you elaborate on the “drying torq monster”. I’ve never done a reverse lam, but I might someday…
Sure, The board usually gets glassed bottom first 1 layer of something wt.Then flipped over and is glassed in multi-layers of whatever wt. glass.If you reverse this process,and don’t watch your weave direction(you want it straight,not crossed-up)and/or cook it off hot.It will twist your board like a album in a hot car.This is due to several things including thickness of inital glass and resin vs foam-wt,stringer type,glassing the dome side first,and of course drying and shrinking of the glass after both lam and hotcoat.There’s more but I think you get my point.gone surfin’bud.Keep Building!Herb
after glassing the bottom, clean up the top and then tape off the bottom, giving yourself an inch or so overlap. lay up the deck and when it kicks to where you can handle it turn it over and make cuts at the nose and tail and an inch or so up the tape line. if you run a tongue blade under the tape, the glass should give you an outline of your tape off to follow with a razor blade. lay the blade down against the tape and just follow it. or, just lay up the bottom and trim it where it adheres to the blank, flip it, do the same on the deck, surform the overlap and freelap a clear over the deck.
Thanks for the responses. I think the one gilley wrote about how to get a good trim of that second layer from the tape outline will help. One thing, what is a tongue blade? Is he talking about a wooden tongue depressor stick?
mix a little extra pigment/resin to store until after you cut the lap then baste the cut line with it. this, however, is probably not a good idea with tints.