the ones you miss the most.
Have been fortunate to have surfed in Bali, G-Land, Cloudbreak, Tahiti, West Oz, throughout HI, and more. Of all them, my favorite wave is a hike in winter swell reef that I lived nearby for decades. Surfed it with my son recently during a visit to spend time with my new granddaughter, on a lightly offshore 11’ @ 17 second swell, a session that reminded me of why I fell in love with that wave long ago. It also reminded me of why I keep a 7’10 racer stashed at my son’s house…
When my time here is finished, my son has directions to paddle my ashes out and scatter them along that reef. Just him, remembering all the days we shared there, more often then not just us the two of us, hooting each other on…
Dang, that’s a beautiful spot Rob!
Icc, I think you’re getting older like me. 11’ at 17 sec is very solid surf. 7-11" inches indeed! Congratulations.
My “home spot” is fickle, but beautiful. After every surf I stop and look at the whole scene and try to look at it through the eyes of a tourist so I don’t take it all for granted. I say “home spot” because I am still a Johnny come lately after 16 years in this area.
Mike
Very cool. Makes me wish my Dad surfed. 