i want to hear more
Hola,
Materials list and dimmensions are at the top of the thread.
1"=2.5cm-OK?
Core should be 5cm (2") thick, 60cm wide and 125cm long. As I said before, it’s not easy, but possible, to find a 2" thick XPS sheet, so we need to buy 2x1" sheets or, better, 1x2cm + 1x3cm, and glue them together with some contact cement (honey-like, not toothpaste-like) using a notch spreader.
If you can find sheet or sheets of same dimmensions in polyethilene(PE) or polypropilene(PP), go ahead. It was just impossible for me here in Spain, so I went XPS (wallmate, roofmate, glascofoam, polyfoam, k-foam,…).
EPS is not the best option due to easy water absortion, but it could be a good option for the first shaping attemp since it’s cheap.
PE and PP are way better for bodyboards since they have flex and good shape recovery (memory).
XPS is stiffer, good for speed, but have no memory, so we must put some kind of “pad” between core and deck layer to avoid elbow craters.
125 long 60 wide and 2.5 thick. those are the dimesions right??ok.i know where to get ethilene sheets no problem ill serch for xps and polypro but ill get ethilene first
This post aint dead yet! Finally getting around to doing this but I can’t find sheets of HIPS or an equivelant either! Anybody have any leads… just look in for a sheet say 72x24x1 or 2mm
Any thin, slick, non-brittle plastic should work (not that I’ve ever built a bodyboard). Any plastics company should have pvc sheets. This is just the first company I looked at, white 1/8" 4’x8’ sheets were $17, http://k-mac-plastics.net/pvc_sheet_white.htm
Hey folks -
http://www.mcmaster.com/ is great for getting almost any kind of material you need. I would be careful of using HIPS though. From what I’ve read (I can email info to anyone who’s interested), it almost immediately begins to degrade on exposure to UV. I think PVC is the better (and slightly cheaper) option. McMaster-Carr has a 4’ x 4’ sheet for $16.
Ok… another set back… I used the Nonflammable contact cement to try and bond the s sheets of xps together but when I came down this morning and removed the weights the thing peeled right apart and the cement was still wet and runny in the center. I purchased the identical can of stuff that was posted in this thread. Can anyone that truely understands the properties of XPS suggest a bonding agent that will work?
Ok I’m an idiot… reread the post… supposed to wait 5 minutes
so, I’m confused…did waiting 5 minutes work out for you?
No i spoke to you after I posted that. Still open to any suggestions about bonding xps. ANYBODY???
I used a construction glue that is safe for xps/eps called Selleys “Liquid Nails” (at least that’s what it’s called in Oz) and it worked for me. I glued “planks” of blue xps together to make a blank. It seemed to glue pretty well - it hung on until I got the board shaped and glassed at least. What about epoxy as well ? I think that would be OK if the surface of the XPS is roughed up a bit. But I’m sure there are many here with much more XPS experience than I who would be able to suggest something.
Cheers
Rohan
Brent, remind me about this at work tomorrow…I’ll see what I can do about talking to some of the guys I work with and maybe some vendors.
Later…
I’ve also been told that polyurethane glue (usually “foaming” ones such as “gorilla glue” or “purbond”) will do the trick as well. But you need to clamp things well or the foaming action can push your pieces apart. I have also seen something called Weld-On 3051 that is supposedly specifically designed for gluing stryrofoam (xps) to styrofoam (xps).
Cheers
Rohan
Quote:
I’ve also been told that polyurethane glue (usually “foaming” ones such as “gorilla glue” or “purbond”) will do the trick as well. But you need to clamp things well or the foaming action can push your pieces apart.
I reckon that should work well
especially if u do it in a vacuum bag
i put together a pump with switch and guage for about $100 nz
or u could use an old fridge pump
cheers
Whatever I use will need to stand up to water pretty well as it won’t be sealed. Super glue seemed to work the best on my test peices. liquid nail was prob where I was gonna go next. I think I may give this contact cement one more try on the two peices I’ve already messed up to see if I did something wrong the first time.
You might also try 3M 78. I used it on EPS with good results, but it can be hard to find. Its a spray contact cemtent. I was able to get the auto body supply place to get it in for me as long as I bought a case (6 cans).
http://www.bindingsource.com/pdf/ADH-SPRAY-78-POLY-MSDS.pdf
When I tried to use liquid nails the glue was so thick that I couldn’t get the pieces together without a gap.
YYMV
Mark
Hola Notakook,
I feel for you, mate. I guessed that “non-flammable contact cement” should work.
I’ve searched again on google and found this in USA:
ADEPS, from Dryvit.com
http://www.dryvit.com/product_details.asp?country_id=1&product_id=1
If it works for EPS to wood, it should work for XPS to whatever.
this is a great thread, I’m going to try this, for a core try to find someone who sells Nida core polypro, I found someone here but i haven’t gotten a price from them yet. Also wouldn’t a polyurethane (gorilla glue) work just fine as an adhesive.
how about some photos?
cheers
Shoeless the gorilla glue worked AWESOME for bonding the sheets together, just make sure you put a good amount of weight on it as it does expand a bit. Sands pretty good and the bond is actually impressive. The non-flamable contact cement is garbage… i’m assuming this was not the stuff Niera was originally talking about but that picture thats posted is NOT the stuff you want to use… after numerous attempts to make it work I’m giving up… the bond is garbage and it doesn’t seem to cure without air exposure. So NOW I need something to bond the eva to the xps. I’m thinking 3-m spray adhesive, the same stuff I hear everyone using to reapply their trackion pads?? Thoughts? Oh and Gorilla glue is just to expensive to use for this AND the expanding action under the eva frightens me.
I have used the pink Owens and Corning xps foam for five boards now. I usually use Gorilla Glue or another polyurethane expanding, water catalyst glue, but on my last board, I decided to use epoxy to try and get a better, thinner bond. The Bond is too good. Since the epoxy is so hard, I have a hard time sanding and finishing the blank and some chunks got ripped out during shaping due to the epoxy’s incredible hold on the foam. The epoxy is also heavier than the polyurethane glue, but it is stronger so a longer board can be safely built and ridden stringerless. I’m done with stringers.
Doesn’t the contact cement react with that foam and eat it?