Hey everyone.
I would be interested in knowing tecnics to stripe a board with colored resin.
I want the next board to be a mix of blue (lower 2/3 of the board) and yellow (1/3 covering the nose).
I would manage perfectly if I didn’t want the separation line to be perfect. So to hve a perfectly straight line on bottom and deck, how would you do it ?
Would you add the yellow after having laminated the whole board in blue, as a 1/3 hot coat ? Or is it done another way ?
Thanks for your help !
Tape off and paint direct to foam. Otherwise tinted or opaque resin brushed onto a tape-off. The same way they did it in the early '60's. There is a way to do it in a lamination, but that method is super time consuming and involved.
if you look in the archives for ( scary stuff but works great ) ive done a thread on how to do it the old school way
but like Mcding said just paint it on the foam, thats the easiest way to get that done
The trickiest thing about a tape-off that alot of guys screw-up is at the rail. If you want a straight line completly around the board (bottom and deck); You will have to "eyeball" your line as you wrap the rail. Using a smaller width tape helps. Such as 3/4, 1/2 or even 1/4". Narrow width wraps and follows the curve better. Othewise; pull your line from mid-rail on the deck to mid-rail opposite side and then tear the tape. Then do a differant piece of tape for the bottom rail to rail. You'll get the idea when you start it.
Ok I kind of understand, and I definitly don’t want to paint the board.
But in your tecnich that means you glass first one color, with the tape, take it off once it is done and then glass with the other color as they won’t mix together once the fiber is saturated with resin. So what about the bound of the resin ? And obviously, I suppose if you do it for the first time, there is no way this will come out totaly clean.
How about the colored coat idea once the board is laminated and solid ?
Not sure of your question here flong…I think you interpreted them saying to laminate the board with a tape off? IF so, no.
Painting the board directly on the foam would be easiest, but if you want to do it resin, first glass the whole board in one color, preferably tthe yellow. hotcoat and sand. Then tape off the area you want striped. Mix up second color, blue, add some sanding agent in and paint on[ crosshatch].
Make sure to add plenty of pigment and opaque white as it needs to be thick and consistent. Let brush strokes settle. Pull tape before resin goes off. MAy scare you but if all is done correctly the line will be crisp and the resin won’t run.
Make sure to us convex side of a toungue depresser, spoon, or fingernail to push tape down where the line will be. Use good tape. And be aware of drips as you pull masked off area up as resin will still be liquid.
You cannot put masking tape on fiberglass cloth and get yourself anything but a mess. If you insist on doing stripes in resin you have to do it the way Pico stated.
Ok, it doesn’ seem too complicated. I was indeed worried about masking the dry fiber at the beginning.
Just one more thing though. Once I have my blue layer done, after hot coating and sanding the yellow, I suppose the next step is to sand the blue coat down and then gloss coat the entire board. Is it going to create a slight edge between the two colors because of the diference in resin quantity ? And isn’t sanding going to erase the blue line neetness in spite of being very careful ?
Also, what would be your advice to make all this with a wooden glass on quad set up. Should I tape the fins too to have a perfect line at the base ? Or am I better off coating the fins in blue ?
blue stripes, light sand, last hot/gloss coat, final sand.
When you plan the stripe size make them large enough and in the correct place so that the fins fall on the yellow parts, otherwise glass ons over the stripes my be compromising strength.
if you have glass on wooden fins i would not use the blue coat over them i would tape them off at the base
when sanding the colored hot coat just take your time and sand slow or just do it by hand, the belly and the deck shouldnt be too hard but the rails is where it gets scary, if you layed down the colored hot coat right and got it nice and flat and used enough pigment then the color should still be present after sanding
there shouldnt be a edge between the two colors if you sand it down right
good luck and try and post some pics of your progress
Inhale.....exhale...deeep inhale.....exhale....If the Low Tech Lab can do it...any one can do it......
What was the question?
Thank you for all the input it is going to be really helpful.
I had another idea :
How about glassing the board with the 2 colors (blue for the 2 lower 3rds, yellow for the nose ), being careful to have a clear line separating them. It’s not going to be straight, but if I keep some blue tinted resin for the line, in the exact same color, what would happen if I used it after hot coating and sanding to correct and straitghen the line between the 2 colors ?
For instance with an inch wide stripe. If this works, at least the board would not be over-weighted by the amount of resin necessary to coat the blue part …
What do you guys think ?
flong,
you’re starting to concentrate too much on the wrong thing. I hope you put this much thought into the shape. You can use the method I described to do any number of things to add color to a board. Get going already.
hi there , "Flong" ...
I just want to know ...
WHY don't you want to colour the blank ?
It just seems to me [but I may be wrong ] that you are making it unnecessarily difficult for yourself ? ...so ... WHY ??!!
cheers
ben
do you meen like this
I am almost there, almost ! just finishing the shape.
Thing is with the color, I really don’t like painted boards and I like working resin, even if it is hard, so I’ld rather try and learn new technics.
What I am looking for is exactly that ken.
...post some photos please !
cheers
ben
