Hot coat without tape line?

I know i´ve read here somewhere about how to hotcoat without taping up a dripping edge. As I remember it, you just use your fingers to tidy up the rail but no further explanation was made. Anyone care to explain how to do it? Do you have to wait until the resin gels? Worth the trouble? Seems pretty sweet to save pricy tape and perhaps cut some sanding.

Most of the time I skip the tape for the hot coat when using UV cure Poly on HP shortboards.  I just scrape any drips as the last step before exposing to UV.  I’ll just use tape to build up my hard edge along the tail.

If using epoxy you have that extended gel time during which you can smooth out any drips with your finger or a mixing stick. MEKP catalyzed poly might be a bit tricky(?)

 

   It is.        It’s all in the timing      first time I saw it done was in 1958 @ the Velzy&Jacobs San Clemente shop.       Then, it was being done in the gloss.    No lam resin then.      Everything was done with only one resin.      Richold glossing resin.

If you are talking hotcoat, here is a suggestion.  Hotcoat the bottom first.  I would use tape for the bottom as you usually leave a lip of resin in the tail to produce your hard edge on the board.  Pull tape and flip when set.  Hotcoat the deck and allow resin to drip over the edge.  Walk the full length of the board with the brush as normal and wrap the brush around the rail.  As the hotcoat sheets over the board, wipe the bottom with a laminating squeegie.  Wait a few minutes and wipe again.  Continue to wipe the bottom until the hotcoat hits the gel state. 

I like that, Bluenose

I never used tape when hotcoating. only for glossing

My process was

  1. paint laps from deck with filler

  2. grind flat

  3. tape up resin edge.

  4. paint in edge with lam resin and paint around the sanded edge.

  5. squegee lam resin into the unfilled centre weave, not to thick just to remove any fisheyes and set up for a nice thin bottom hotcoat.

  6. hotcoat bottom spreading the resin out the rail then all nose to tail movements i would brush under the board covering the rail with the resin i pulled from the centre… Maybe two or three back and forths then id move to other side.

  7. do the other side same

  8. cross stroke once

  9. nose to tail to smooth it all out

  10. Then in shorter strokes I go back to the deck rail and make short passes back and forth to fill the weave and even the resin out i pulled onto the bottom rail.

  11. Then finally to clean it all up just wait till the resin looks like its close to gelling and do some nose to tail strokes around the deck rail to smooth it all out

  12. wait till the board has gelled but not completely cured, then flip for the deck. you need to do this so the deck filler will bond to the bottom filler. If you let it completely cure youll get seperation marks when you go to sand the board.

  13. I just do exactly same process but minus step 10.

hope thats sort of understandable.

oh also this process was for lightweight shortboards with only one industry standard hotcoat. if it was for a gloss or sanded gloss I would do a different process. All done with a brush, tried using my hands and squegees and nothing seemed to smooth or flatten out as nice as a normal brush.