I just finished sanding the hotcoat on a longboard with a dark blue pigment. I must have sanded a little too hard near the bottom lap because the cloth is now showing but is smooth. Can I hide the cloth grain by re-hotcoating that one area or do I have to live with it? Thanks!
To answer your question....Yes, a little layer of hotcoat will make it disappear.
Instead,do a gloss coat and either sand/polish or just sand depending on how you want the finish to look(matte or glossy). A gloss coat will completely seal the board and a little extra weight won't hurt on a log. Gloss coats really don't add much weight, and will seal any weave or pinholes.
hope this helps, good luck
So the gloss coat will make the blend and random sanding scratches blend? Great! I was planning on glossing it anyway. Thanks!
a little resin styrene mix rubbed on before gloss will ensure the weave disapears
you can substitute acetone for syrene
the sand marks will dissapear with the next coat of resin
So it sounds like I’m better off hotcoating those few problem areas, then glossing?
if you hot coat the area's and resand, you may get other weave showing next to where you just filled.
just rub a little thined resin on the spots and shoot the gloss
much easyer my friend,,,,,, post some pics
Howzit hanlon,Just do a gloss job amd rub it out try to remember where the weave is so you don't sand thru the glos in the same place. Most of the time those hotcoat sand thrus are near the tail or nose so be careful. Aloha,Kokua
I hate how the cloth always shows up near the nose and tail, it drives me crazy! Thanks for all of the great advice. I’ll post some pics once the glassing is done.
Howzit hanlon, Do you mean it's easier to hit the weave in those spots? Just fine tune those areas before you hotcoat the board and that might help.The spot I was always careful is the rails in the tail area and it's very easy to burn throuh there when rubbing ou the board. The trick is to not use the flat face of the wool pad there, just use the strands on the edge of the bonnet which will polish as well as the bonnet face and do the same on the nose rails. Aloha,Kokua
Here’s the finished product. I tried a resin painted nose on the hotcoat and could never get a uniform gray color. So I had to revert to spray panting the red and gray on the nose with a few coats of auto grade clear coat. Sadly, I was told I couldn’t gloss it at that point since the gloss could mess up the paint. So I just polished up everything and it still looks good. Shaping and glassing has a STEEP learning curve when your only teachers are books, videos, and websites. It won’t stop me from making more though! :)