Hotwiring and glue stringers in 1st block of foam. Some advice?

General Discussion
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Hey Everyone,

I’m about to jump into building boards the “right” way big time (well, big time compared to my “MacGuyver” endevors of the past). I soon will be done with my full-time shaping bay, so I’m about to place an order for a billet of 1.5# EPS. Dimensions wil be 2’x8’x48". I haven’t firured things with a calculator yet, but I figure I can hotwire out 10-13 blanks from that size billet, taking into account that I will be working from the top down and allowing for the 8 or so inches left over from the last blank cut near the bottom and allowing for about 1 inch “wiggle” room between each rocker template, seems my hotwire jobs always “wiggle”. So: (48-8=40, 40/4=10) if ya catch my drift.

I’ve been checking out blank suppliers and calcualting my material based on their rocker profiles. 

My questions are:

Would it be unwise to hotwire out the entire billet with various rocker profiles leaving them at a low tolerance level (thicker than the blank suppliers) and glueing in a wider stringer to match to each generic blank to leave more room for shaping and modifying rocker as I begin to shape each blank. For example: Say I were to hotwire out a blank that is 7’6", 3 1/4" thick at the center, with a (roughly) 6 1/4" nose rocker, 3 1/4" tail rocker, and leave a thickness of say 2" at the nose and 2 3/4" thickness at the tail. If I did this, how much of a pain in the @ss would it be to shape the nose and tail rocker down later to my exact dimensions, I know I’d have alot of stringer shaving to do with this thickness at the nose and tail. But this would give me a generic blank (low tolerance) with room to move around later. I’d be splitting each blank and glueing in a stringer (probably 1/8" poplar ply) with a matching rocker for each blank.

I’d prefer to cut it all out into blanks as I’ll have to set up a jig table for glueing stringers for each board and I only have 1 room to work in. I’d rather make a bunch of blanks of varying length and rocker first, then remove all my jig equipment and start shaping one after the other. Otherwise I’ll have to set everything up each and evey time.

I know hotwiring each blank closer to tolerance would be better in the long run but having a “quiver” of blanks to just grab and go to town on sounds more productive. Also, I don’t know where I’d store my billet each time in between hotwiring if I did them one at a time.

So what do you all think? One at a time or a bunch of generic blanks?

P.S.

As an after thought; I figured on getting a 4’ x 8’ sheet of 1/8" poplar ply for the stringers (works out perfect with the 48" thick billet of EPS). But, should I spend the extra $ to get it “shop” quality (i.e.; sanded both sides) or does AC (sanded 1 side) work just as well, since I’ll be glueing it on each side to sliced foam anyway? Or just sand the rough side myself?

If you read this mini-novella, and take the time to respond, I’d like to say “Thank You” in advance.

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Stop.......think.....go slow.....update your user profile to include location....not your address , just a general area.....

Are you sure you want 1.5 foam?    Really sure????   I want 1.75 or better... Did you read the Marco vs SB Yellow thread? Have you clicked on the Swegway pop up ads? You can buy a block from Ken at Segway and he will hot wire it for you...Anyway you want it...It's worth looking into....Check the web site ,send the guy an e-mail. He ships too...

The first block of industrial grade foam I worked with was 24" wide....Not so easy for my backyard crew....We made some nice boards...We made lots of mistakes....Stringers are tricky.....The second block was 12" wide....much easier to handle on many levels...

I'm not looking for foam...But......you might find someone here ...that lives near you .....that will split the cost.....

I buy Resin Research 3 gallons at a time.....The last 4 kits I've paid for up front... Then I hang on Swaylocks and find someone looking for resin. Twice I've split the kit in half for money and twice I've traded for stuff to someone who needed resin.....

Have fun

 

Ray

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Like Ray says; Have them size it for you, (2 pieces 1 foot wide instead of 1 block of 24".)  It is rare to have a source for block EPS that does not hot wire to spec.  Explain what you are trying to do with the stringer, and ask them to place the stringer cut sides together for shipment, so you know how it goes, but mostly so those faces don’t get dented.

I especially agree with Ray that you should let people know your area.  There could be perfect blanks at below cost nearby. (Like at my place in HB).  I do agree with your 1.5 # choice, but we are slightly in the minority, so it is a personal thing.

Sickdog

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Ray,

Thanks for the advice. Would you go stringerless with 1.75# and up? Was going to do a few regular glass jobs and then maybe try out the TFlex method, have a good vacuum system set up and everything. And yeah, I wouldn’t mind splitting things up with anyone in my area, just haven’t found too many here on Swaylocks near me.

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I’m just a backyard-builder kook trying to keep my idle hands from
performing acts of mischief and self degradation :slight_smile:

That’s a pretty big claim? For me a “KOOK” is someone who doesn’t try!

 

I like to make my stringers using 1/8" Bending Popular or Basswood Ply.

1.0 - 1.4 double Stringer 1.5 - 2.0 Single I’m not into the heavier EPS’s and I don’t normally go stringerless.

Core balanced with Skin.

Core is key.

All Skin is a mistake.

Balance your build.

Surfding**
**

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Ding,

I like that shape! Though of double stringers as well. Was going to go with Poplar, I cant find Basswood ply here anywhere. Where do you get yours?

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Where are you?

I can give you some supply choices.

Popular works fine.

Basswood ply is also good.

 

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I’m in Southern WA State

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In Orange County we have so many choices. It seems there would be even more options where you are?

If you can get the bending popular at 1/8" you are golden.

Some Lowes or Home Depots carry it.

 

 

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Hello Houdini,

I did a search and found a thread that goes way back.....it's worth reading....a group of Sway's guys did buy foam together...it got complex but it did happen...

http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1018286....

There's a second thread where Shipman and I work out the hot wire and gluing stringers, ect...I'll search....give me a few days....Lot's of mistakes ,lots of fun...

Ray

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OK, thanks Surfding and Stingray,

Seems I’m exactly 5 years behing the times from that link. It’s crazy 'cause that sounds exactly like us now. And “Insulfoam” that is were I’m getting my block of EPS. I chose them because I’m in WA and that is the closest place. No shipping and I used to work with the dude that is ordering it, making him a board too, so I’m gettig it at his cost… I just go pick it up.

Fiberglass Supply is on my way back home, so I was gonna stop there and get my FG and shit. I am ordereing RR from GL for my epoxy though, guess that is the only thing I don’t get locally.

So, I guess I’m asking; Is it worth it? It’s just whatever Insulfoam decides to give me. I told him “Jeff” that I need a 2# Block. That’s probably not equal to what you guys are using now (probably no skins), but for a beginner, that sounds like heaven bro.

$210.00 (cost) for a billet of 2# that measures 2’ x 8’ x 48" ? How can I go wrong? At the very least, that will be some good practice shaping.

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P.S.

Forgot to add:

Willing to share and make trips to Fiberglass Supply for anyone that wants anything. Not too far from my home base In WA. Just a short cruise.

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Fiberglass Supply

**If you ever get into vacuum bagging your close to a good supply house
**

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Here's the second thread...

http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1019259

 

Ray