solid pigment color with a crisp separation to white? I see them on longboards and am baffled. thx
Howzit Greg,My last long board in the 60's was yellow tint half ways and yellow pigment the other half. The board was laid up fully with yellow tint and then the yellow pigment was done after the lam like a hot coat. sort of an old days and new days way of doing things. I wanted a clear strip separating the 2 colors but they couldn't pull it off. I would have glassed it my self but there was no laminating shop on camp pendleton so I had to have chuck Dents guys Glass it. Aloha,Kokua
I don't know without pics and plus I've never done it, but...sounds like they're just pouring out of a cup and squeegeeing from the middle out, color and clear at either end.
some I have seen have a very crisp separation of colors. this one is not one of those, but conveys the intent. many thx
I would say a foam stain would get you to what your looking for. might not be as solid as a lam job.
if you do it in the lam you have to plan the exacution before starting
use sqirt bottles to have control of the the resin colors at line of contact across the board
squeegee away frome the line not across it
leave very little at the line,, then squeegee center out to the rail on the line
cleen squeegee after every swipe
dont let the colors blend
some are done as a gloss panel aswell with a tape line
Been busy. But thought I would pose a question to the experts regarding Greg's topic. If the color on the board in Gregs' picture were done at the time of lamination and the old rule "the first resin to hit the blank" were to be taken into consideration. Which color hit the blank first in Gregs' pic?
white,,, but the orange mudded along the line or was pulled on top of it
note you can get color bleed if not carefull
you could also do a cut line but not recomended as it could be a weak area in the glass unless you did an extra layer of glass
White went first, then the orange. i like to have 3 or 4 squeegees ready to go. Do the white and set the squeegee aside. next do the orange with another one. There are lots of way to do this.
…is like Pauluk says
-in the picture, the Brown/Orange is first then White: observe the White OVER the other color
It’s like Huck and Kensurf said. White went down first and lastly the orange. Resin pulled from middle to rails. However in Reverb’s defense I must say could be done either way. I have been seeing some unreal color work coming out of Australia as of late.
I really like what is happening with surfboards these days. Super high quality stuff. I guess the Bing boards are being made in the old Channin shop? Up on the hill in Encinitas? Home to Jim Phillips/Sam Cody and other talented people? I am getting ready to go hang out with Jim for a while. (Jim could be the final word on the “which came first” debate as the glasser that did the board is in the same building.)
hey Greg
obviously there are more ways to skin a cat,,,
Im thinking the suggestion of doing the color hot or gloss coat would deffinetly get the crisp line separation and a nice opaque color
I get the crisp line by spraying opaque color paint over the sanded board. Then I gloss as normal. I used to do it with pigmented resin but i have a spray setup in my furniture studio. I called Jim phillips out of curiosity on this deal and he basically told me how they are doing these lam colors. Pulling the resin from the center out and leaving a wet edge. Snipping the lap where it tucks under for a clean line. There are lots of ways to do it. I personally like the somewhat abstract look of the two colors blending together. My way is very clean but more like painting a car. The Bing board is a good technique for a production shop. Cut laps on both sides.
I am tired of shaping. Just want to do art and color.
…hello Cleanlines, I do this type of laminations; lately in an “hybrid” way (may be I ll post some on the swirl thread) and I tell you that in this case, the Brown is first then the White.
Put both colors same time.
White is pigment in this board, the other is a tint due to that is the way I say.
-yes, also I did some with auto paint on the h coat, but had some problems with the gloss coats.
There are probably many ways to do this. I do both colors at once, several clean spreaders and best if there are two people to get a good quality consistent color. Hardest part is the lap, having the sharp white/orange line wrap around without any “mud” effect. If the colors are laid in sequence rather than simultaneously, I found the “parting line” to not be as sharp.
Some shops wrap part of the board they do not want color with stretch wrap, then after glassing the first half, remove the wrap and glass the second part. Again, the times I’ve seen this the colors had a bit of a blur or “weavey” look where they met…
Another way some do it is to do one color first and let it harden. A cut is put in the lap at the transition. You can then tape the board and do the other color.
A guy in Europe buys a 55 gllon drum of lam resin and then adds a few gallons of pigment. He adds a gallon of hardener and stirs it all up with an electric mixer. Next he takes the board and dips the nose in the open resin drum. You get a nice clean line this way.
On a more serious note. You can also use tinted white zisner primer. It thins with alchohol and drys super fast. I use it to paint opaque panels on the hot coat. Drys super fast and glosses over like a dream.
What if you did a color stain on the blank with the colors you want then lay your glass right over it while it’s still wet enough to sokin into the glass? Would that work?