what’s the proper method for getting resin color like this on the rails:
do you do the resin tint directly on the foam, and then glass over it clear? or do you glass with tinted resin in sections?
Howzit soultice, That’s a 60’s board right, if so then it was probably layed up with yellow tint and the red rails were done as a taped off hot coat color.
kokua…you have ALL the answers. yes, this is of course a Dewey Weber Performer from the golden age of surfing, and while my style comes straight from the 60s, i wasn’t born until 1983. what would i do without people like you to fill in the blanks for me?!!
HOLDONAMINNIT…
If you color the hot coat, then sand it (particularly on the rails) you’re headed for trouble.
One, the resin won’t stay the same thickness on the rails, so the color will be uneven.
Two, the cut lline of the rail lam won’t allow the color to be laid on evenly, so the color will be uneven.
Three, even if you lay it on real thick and opaque, when you sand, it’ll come out uneven (AMHIK).
sssooooo…
(strongly) suggest your color the foam first, both yellow and red, then glass clear over it. How you color the foam is up to you, suggest spray paint or thin coat of pigmented lam resin.
Hope this gets to you in time.
AMHIK?
I assume,
BTDTNDIA.
i’m not doing anything yet…it’s just my curiosity that wants to know for future projects.
sooo…ARE THERE ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS ABOUT THE BEST WAY TO GET THIS EFFECT?
meanwhile, you two kids can argue about who’s way is better. this should be fun. and…GO!
thats a brand new board i think, i saw a blue one dated 2004 just like in in a shop yesterday. I asked the shopkeeper how it was colored and he told me that it was opaque resin, but I thought that it might have been paint. The color was extemely uniform. Pinlines were tape. I wondered if it had a gloss coat or acrylic finish. I also saw a green one, a little longer board, but resin tint with cut laps, maybe volan, really nice glass job. Couldnt read the shapers name, but he drew a little flower on the stringer. 50/50 rails all around, fair amount of tail rocker. I measured the thickness and they were both exactly 3/8 inch thicker than stated.
it is a brand new board, meaning that it is currently in production, but that design dates back to the 60’s-era of surfing, and given the style of Dewey Weber Surfboards, i’d imagine that they use all the same coloring techniques that they did back then (even if just for nostalgia).
Yellow tint in the lamination. Airbrush the orange on top of the sanded hotcoat. Then gloss and polish. Be carefull when sanding down the bead on the gloss.
ya might want to adjust your monitor, there…i see no orange…only yellow and red. airbrushing red over a yellow lam would likely give me an orange look unless i laid it on pretty thick. and then it would surely bleed like mad under the gloss.
Oh sorry. I mean red.
Urinate on the blank until it turns yellow (should take a couple weeks) then tape off middle, get a bunch of pomegranites and blackberries, and spit the juice on the red parts. If your mouth becomes dry, use red wine.
glass normally.
it’s “natural”.
I’m with Kokua on this one. I have fixed a few Webbers in my time and the color was contained in the hotcoat. In fact my semi-new Webber (1998) wore off some of the color on the rails because I dragged it on the sand. Remember when in doubt go with Kokua he’s the man.
from the looks of it the colors are within the hotcoat. Applying gloss resin over the hotcoat would eliminate problems with the quality and eveness of color…b.c. u would not have to sand the hot coat
yep I had a weber and it definately had the color in the hot coat, you could feel the edge of the red.
Howzit T, Thanks for the compliment. We have to think like the 60's to know how these boards were made. almost all coloring was done with pigments and tints,either on the foam ,in the lay up or hot coats,And even colored glosses. BASA ( Bobby Allen) surfboards still does this type of work on a day to day basis, he stopped painting boards years ago even though his airbrushing was really great. When ever i go to his shop it's like stepping back in time and he never ceases to amaze me. If weight was not the big factor that it is these days I would love getting back into old school glassing,but alas they want them as light as can be and still not break. How many of us remember making the walk into Tressels with a 30 lb board and keeping an eye out for the men in the green uniforms. Aloha, Kokua
basa after sanding pigments the glosses over the pigment too …ambrose///he did a couple restoration jobs for me and that was how they came out so good …pigment master…Bobby Allen.
I presently do all the repairs for Weber, and this one is painted on the hotcoat. The yellow is either an opaque or tint on the lamination. However, I’ve seen some of these 100% painted. I double my fees for repairs to painted boards because of the hand sanding and increased glassing area. It’s next to impossible to machine-sand tape lines without tearing into the paint (only a glosscoat covering it). Blending in the repair with the airbrush usually increases the glassing area 3x. If you really want this effect, pigment the lam for the rail colors and paint the inside. The rails see the most damage and it’s a lot easier to color repairs with pigments than paint. Most boards with paint over the hotcoat look like hell in about a year.
The shaper is Jerry O’Keefe, who presently does all of Weber’s boards. The finish is gloss resin, and pinlines are either paint or resin, never tape. Glassing is contracted to several name production shops, always top-level quality. They do a lot of volan, several models come standard with it. Unless you want different, they use 6+6/6 . However, most get a deck patch and/or fin/tail patch.