Anyone have any sugestions on how to yield results as in this Dewey Weber board? I love the 2 tone colors - I am wondering if they use a Yellow base on the top and bottom lamination and then airbrush the blue on? I love this board - wish i could afford it!
[img_assist|nid=1040951|title=Dewey Weber Board|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=388|height=640]
Howzit BC, In the 60’s it woukd have been laided up with a yellow tint and then the blue would have been solid blue pigment on the hot coat, but that is the old school way. In this era of board building it would still have the yellow tint lamination and possibly a heavy blue paint spray. Do tou know if this is a modern day board or a picture from the 60’s. It could be a modern day built board but done old style and the weight would be a hint. Aloha ,Kokua
Most Weber boards done like this are painted on the hotcoat. You’re correct, they used a yellow tint, painted, then glossed. You can do the same with an epoxy tint, LP paint, LP gloss. BTW, I repaired many poly versions of their boards done like this and it’s a bitch to fair-in new paint/gloss without tearing into the exisiting coats.
PeteC and Kokua - thanks for the replies! This is a modern board… not sure how heavy though. What i think i am going to try is the yellow lam - top and bottom with 6 oz. apply little cheater coat of epoxy where i intend to mask off… then spray the blue on…THEN… another clear lamination of 6 0z all around (+4oz deck patch). I may do a full hot coat prior to painting the blue and sand with an 80 grit so the next layer of glass/epoxy has something to bite into rather than paint on the weave? What do you guys think? I know i am probably playing with fire here laminating over the paint - but I am paranoisd about sanding through a section of the blue!!! I am not super concerned about weight… i can sacrifice a couple pounds - in the scheme of things, it should not matter - i weigh 250…whats another 1%. I just finished this board a couple weeks ago - painted to the foam - cant wait to see if this makes it through the summer heat without delaminating!!!
Thanks again for the feedback guys!
Kokua - thanks for the input! I submitted some other options as noted in post just above this one - wanted to see what your thoughts were? Thanks again!!~
Brandon
Pete, what is LP?
Good question!
LP is linear polyurethane paint, either the automotive or (preferred) marine type. Expensive and 2-part. Thin and spray it using an airbrush or small detail gun. LP forms a chemical bond with epoxy; acrylics and enamels do not. I really don’t recommend any type of paint between epoxy coats, that’s why you would paint over the hotcoat and then clear LP gloss the entire board (at least 3 coats). Also, you want to hotcoat the whole thing before you paint to insure a smooth surface free of weave. Sand to 220 prior to painting. You won’t get the deep gloss look on an epoxy because the paint is much thinner than the resin.
The Weber in the photo is a poly board, their epoxies are made by Boardworks and are fully painted like all others of this type. The specific construction of the board in the photo is: 6+6 deck, 6 bottom yellow tint on both; clear hotcoat, acrylic sprayed panels (usually Novacolor), heavy gloss coat(s).
Here is a pic of the finished board… EPS Foam… RR used in Laminate, Green Room epoxy used on hot/gloss coats. Tinted laminate yellow (2 x 6oz), hot coat, airbrushed in the blue and pins, covered with a 4oz laminate all around, another hot coat and gloss coat… with 10" Takayma Pivot fin…weighs 27 pounds. 10’6" x 25-1/2" x 4" (i am a big boy and need a big toy!)
Thanks for all the help!
Brandon
Howzit bc, Actuslly the lightingmakes it the yellow look like a greenish yellow tint and I like that better,but that is just my 2 cents. You did a great job and the only other thng is where is the wooden tail block,that woukd have made the board more special and they are not that hard to do. One of my personal favorites are wooden or resin eyes on the sides of the nose I think those are so special and have a look of their own. Once again the board looks great.Aloha,kokua
Yeah, BC, great looking board. Did you do anything special on the EPS before the yellow tint? I’ve only done one and in spite of carefull sanding and spackling it had a few splotches.
PeteC, thanks for the details. I have a LB blank on my rack that will become a old school pig and I really want that look. I’ve clipped and saved your instructions.
Kokua… thanks! Tail / Nose blocks are next on the learning curve… this is board #6 for me and with each board i try to do something new or more challenging… this one was the color… i fell in love with that weber board further up the page and felt compelled to try it. Also working hard on my finishes… i still cant seem to get the fine scratches out!!! I may try a poly gloss coat on the next board (with a tail block!). Where do you start your sanding on the gloss coat?
Thanks again!
B
Hey Greg… thanks for the comment! As for the tint, it is not a translucent tint, it is opaque - if my understanding of tinting is correct, the opaques are a lot more forgiving? Plus it is yellow… Gods gift to the “i gotta have color on my board” garage surfboard builder like myself. The only thing i do different is i do not water down my spackle… not sure if helps or not?
Happy shaping!
B
Board looks sweet!
Kudos on the finish! Tried spackle, no spackle, yellow, red, blue… always get some sort of splotchyness with tinted lam. I usually have to end up adding more colour to the hotcoat/fillcoat to get an even colour. Putty type pigments have had better results than powder type ones with my epoxy jobs…
Hi B -
GREAT job! From the looks of the pics, the preceeding board turned out just as nice.
I’ve mentioned elsewhere that a perfect finish starts with the shape, continues to the laminating, hot coat and sanding stages - every step has to be done right or it will show later. Your boards reflect attention to detail at every step. To have attained that level of quality after so few boards makes me wonder what kind of background experience you have.
Did you run the pigmented resin through a fine mesh filter? And the gloss? Maybe you could give us a step by step including pads and grits used? I’m astonished at the perfectly flat glossy finish you were able to get using epoxy resin. I know that wasn’t easy and I’m sure you didn’t take any short cuts.
Unbelieveable!
This board is amazing, plus its in my national colors so you/it got my vote regardless.
Keep up the good work and please elaborate about your process, also give a ride report.
peace
Chris
Thanks again John!
As for the steps in glassing/finishing… I spackled the blank with straight spackle - did not water down - and sanded by hand with 220 on a foam pad - special pad made by my buddy Brian G. at Greenlight Surf Supply … (masked off stringer). Made a batch of tinted resin (mixed enough to do both sides prior to adding the hardner to keep color consistent… put half the content in another container and sealed to use for top lamination) - i used Resin Research epoxy for the laminating coats… i personally like the way it wets out the glass. I used yellow System Three Epoxy Opaque Tint - got it from Fiberglass Supply… made sure to use enough to saturate the color… brightened it up a bit with a couple drops of white Tint (System Three as well). I have gotten the splotches as well in the past when i did not use enough tint. When i saturate the color, i have had better luck getting a more consistent color throughout. Additionally, I only did only layer of glass (6oz) with the yellow. I came back and did a clear lamination (another 6 oz) over top of that… Again - i am trying to elimiate too much thickness in the coloring process so i can avoid puddling. Did a hot coat with Green Room Old No. 7 Epoxy - has really nice clarity to it and you can really manipulate the kick time. Gave that a quick hit with the sander using 100 grit on a medium power pad (that is the only pad i own). Masked everything off, painted the blue using Liquitex Cobalt Blue - the idea behind using 100 grit is to put enought of a bite in the hot coat to give the next layer something to hold on to… since that much acrylic paint could likely cause future delamination (a theory that was passed on to me by another shaper). I thinned the Liquitex down with water and shot it all with a touch up gun. then did the pins - used an airbrush for that (black acrylic paint - cheap stuff from Michaels - non gloss). Then i laminated another layer with 4 oz glass… i could have just went and did another hot coat - but i dont trust myself for sanding - i wanted another layer between me and that paint! If i started seeing weave - i knew it was time to stop! Used Green Room Old No. 7 for that as well. Also used it for the proceding hot and gloss coats. Sanded starting with 150 on med power pad - then to 220, 320, 500 - all dry. Cant see what is happening when wet sanding with heavier grits. Then i went to hand wet sanding with 800 and 1200 then compounded with 3M Heavy duty compound (Cheap!) and finished up with Wizards Finish Cut (Shines Awsome! - Cheap as well!!!) I used a wool pad for the 3M Heavy Duty and the same kind, but different pad for the Wizards at about 3000 rpms. Next board i do - i am starting with 220 max - might even try 320… the hardest thing is getting the gloss coat flat and then getting the scratches required to do that out! I just saw the pictures and you tube videos of the guys taping two brushes together to get a nice wide paint brush for the gloss coats - going to try that as well! I figure if i can get the gloss nice and flat, i can start with a higher grit paper which will speed things up quite a bit!
Hope this has some usefull bits of info…
Brandon
Thanks Chris - where from… Sweden?
Hey B!
Beautiful job! And only your 6th?!
The black Hi-surf fin box really brings the board together. haha!
Keep up the great work man
~Brian
that looks amazing! you are doing top notch work
keep it up.