how far under for 2nd deck lap?

General Discussion
1

yea hey just wondering how far u people wrap under the board for ur 2nd deck layer. also does the filler coat hide the bump? like i mean from the top lap onto the bottom?? this site is great tom

2

Hey After you glass one coat, let it harden, flip it over, and surform anything that sticks up, blending the form into the foam. Assuming you mean the deckpatch, or the layer besides the one that wraps down around the bottom…most guys cut it at the joint of the bottom lap, so they “butt” against. It gets hard to wet out two rail layers.

3

hey my book says to do the bottom lap, right then flip it over, do the 1st top lap to MEET the bottom, then do one that wraps around the rails. HELP. also i posted a different thread saying wheather to put another layer on top just where u put ur feet, e.g. 3/4 of the board tom

4

The area where you put your feet is called the deck. The deck patch should be put under the deck glass, not on top. If you did not put in on I would just leave it off. When you wrap you rails, you should go at least 1 inch wrap, let the resin cure. Flip over the board and surefoam file the high spots. Now glass the other side, wrap the same way, at least 1 inch. Allow this to cure. surfoam file down the high spots. Tape off a line right at the center of the rail, only do not push down the tape all the way. I use 2 inch tape, and only press down the first 1/2 inch this will allow the resin to run on to the take and not make drips on the other side of the board. Brush on the hot coat makeing sure you cover all of the cloth with a good coat of resin. Now just as the resin gets to the point where the drips can be pushed with you finger and they will go back to where they started, remove the tape(also known as geling). Allow the hotcoat to cure. Flip the board and repeat for the other side. After everything has cured real well, sand the hell out of it. Make sure that you have sanded off all of the high spots and there are no shiny spots, try not to break into the glass. To gloss coat just do the same as the hot coat only use glossing resin. I know from the sounds of it that this may be too late, but I hope this helps

5

bagman, thanks for that blow by blow, very informative. my resin on the glass coat doesn’t seem brittle enough to sand. do you sand it anyway, or should I wait longer, or my proportions are not good?

6

If by the glass coat you mean lam. coat? you don’t sand the Lam coat. There is no wax in the Lam resin and it will always feel tacky. All you want to do is knock down the high spots. You can use a surfoam file or even some 30 grit, sand paper. All you are trying to do is knock down the spots that will cause problems with the next layer of glass on the other side of the board. After you have glassed both sides, the hotcoat will cover these and you can then sand it down. The hotcoat as well as the gloss coat have wax, which rises to the surface, and cuts off the O2. This alows the resin to cure hard and sandable.

7

Hey -this is great stuff for us who have not mastered glassing - Often a source of problems for me. I was reading people lamenting the current state of this site, but for those who want to learn, experiment, and share knowledge this is great. I hope it lasts. tO

8

Hey When you laminate a surfboard, you do ONE lam procedure on the bottom, then you do ONE lam procedure on the deck. Doesn’t matter if you use 3 layers on the deck, it’s done ONCE.

9

I only do it once. If I’m putting down 3 layers, I only have the top layer lap the rails, and I’m guessing that the 3ed layer that you are talking about is a deck patch. I have a friend that puts down each layer, one at a time. I think that takes too much resin. Which adds weight.

10

Bagman:

I have done about 20 boards, and have tried at one time or another to “sand or surform” the high spots on the rail lap as you mentioned (and as in Glassing 101), but the glass doesn’t want to be sanded or cut down. You know, it’s a little soft without the sanding agent. Also, the sand paper leaves all kind of trash in the weave. Do I need to wait longer between lam’ing the top so I can take down some of these rough spots?

I have been lucky on the last few boards, real clean lap lines, so no major bubbles underneath the top lam coat.

Thanks

GMAN

11

I’m assuming that you’re talking lap lines?

…cutting them seems to work well for me, though timing is crutial. Hit it when its kicked but not completely solid - a little experimenting and you’ll quickly find out what I mean. I just use disposable one-sided razors, which I put a slight bend into, once I’m done with that I baste.

I’ve gotten into the habit of glassing the first side “the night before”, I cut and baste, then call it a night. The next day its hard enough to do some light sanding if need be, it isn’t sticky to touch nor does it stick to my stand, and finally the new glass layer doesn’t stick to it (as much).