I am shaping a 6’5", 19 1/2", 2.6", 4oz S-Glass thruster. I dont want to over do it, and figure this is an easy one for ya’ll
Thanks in advance!!!
Nate
I thought someone posted a chart ?
Assume you are a novice if you are asking. So better to use too much than too little. I still do 2:1 fluid oz by volume rather than weight. I’d say 18oz mixed material bottom lam (12/6); 21 oz mixed material top lam (14/7) (assume 2 layers on top); 9 oz mixed hot coat each side (6/3). So that’s 18+21+9+9=57oz total mixed material (resin+hardener). Plus a few extra oz for the inevitable touchup you’ll be doing.
Totally a novice. This is my 4th board. You rock!!! I appreciate the breakdown. How much additive f do you throw in? I have the small bottle and was planning on only one cap for initial coat.
Additive F: Per Greg Loehr’s advise: 1 capfull for lams and 2 capfulls for hotcoats.
Link to the GreenLight resin amount chart thread:
http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/new-epoxy-polyester-resin-amount-board-length-chart
zero additive F imo
Remember the Greenlight chart is in OZ by WEIGHT, not Volume. My recommendation is just to do 2:1 by Volume, for simplicity. Not sure what kind of bad experience Chrisp had with Add F, but if you’ve got it, I don’t see why you shouldn’t use it. Greg L swears by it. The xylene in it certainly helps lay the hotcoats out better, not to mention the wax for sanding.
I have not tested it. But Zourite did a conversion to estimate volume (in mL) from weight using the GreenLight chart:
http://nsa37.casimages.com/img/2015/06/07/150607060712625384.jpg
Thanks everybody. I appreciate the input. I’ve seen GLs 101 video, but his cap seems bigger. That is my hesitation. Either way, ya’ll provided a bunch of info and i appreciate it!!!
This may seem like a stupid question, but in regards to greenlights chart… What metric are they using for their resin amounts ML? Thanks again!!!
Hi -
I’d say Jamie pretty much nailed it. His amounts are on the generous side but close enough. Just pull off excess with your squeegee. On a recent epoxy glass job, I ended up hitting both sides with an additional epoxy ‘gloss’ coat to seal the sanded fill coat. I don’t know how your material supplier sells it - you’ll probably end up buying more than you actually use. A typical ‘set’ would be 3 quarts (2 resin, 1 hardener) for a grand total of… (drum roll please)… 96 ounces.
When laminating the board, try masking off the opposite side a bit inside your overlaps. Use good tape and wrapping paper. Even with freelaps you’ll find it helps keep things much cleaner. Squeegee all your excess resin past the mask off and ‘baby-sit’ it with another touch of the squeegee before the resin fully sets. This will save you some grief when cleaning up before laminating the opposite side. Try and tuck the laps nice and tight - get any bubbles, stray excess resin, and drips before it really sets. You’ll be able to tell when the epoxy is starting to thicken. Unlike polyester, you will still have ample time before it becomes unworkable.
Good luck with your latest project.
Read through the thread carefully. The GreenLight origina chart is in ounces by weight. Zourite converted ounces weight to estimated milliliters (volume).
Thanks, thats good info. I appreciate it. I swear man, I learn more stuff here than anywhere else. You guys rock!!!
No bad experiences with F just don’t notice a difference when I use it. To each their own
Add F is not required. I use it some do not use it…The instructions say “One ML. per each ounce Hardener”. Not all cap fulls are the same. I use about 1/2 the recomended amount of Add F on all lams and filler coats. Never do I double up on F. Too much Add F will give you a milky finish.
Shop temp and other prep work is much more important. Over working the resin causes Frothing…with or without F.
Regarding additive F, you can see that the exact amount used (or none at all) isn’t critical, just don’t use too much. If you have the smaller bottle with the smaller cap, then doing 2 capfulls with the smaller cap certainly won’t be too much. One thing for sure, xylene is an epoxy thinner, so it helps the RR flow better, especially in hot coats, and especially if it is not so hot in your glassing room. I use it because Greg Loehr recommends it, and he should know. If you look through the archives, he sings the praises of add F all over the place. Not just for flow, but to prevent blush, fisheyes, and other common rookie issues.
John’s formula for estimating is simple and direct.
I did the bottom tonite. It came out great. I will be doing the deck tomorrow. I appreciate everyones assistance. I attached a pic below.
So what method did you use determine how much epoxy to use?