How old were you when you slowed down?

Great question, and would think the answers vary a whole bunch.

Started in 1963, never stopped or paused unless recovering from injuries (thank you two decades plus of high country snowboarding) and would view it as:

Peak was in my mid 20’s thru my late 30’s.  Boards averaged 6’4x 19.5 (I’m 6’3 x 185)

Slow performance drop from 40 to 50, offset with a bit more board and the board themselves just working better (boards creeping up to 7’6 + x 20 for Norcal waters), more focus on down the line from deep rather then vertical, increased committment to daily fitness regiment, and making sure I was still putting in 100 to 150+ days of surfing annually regardless…

50 to 60…now there’s where the drop takes place, no way around it.  The key at this stage is to keep surfing, continue to keep your weight optimized (rare to see a ripping over weight older surfer), your fitness workouts ongoing, and very importantly tweak your equpment so you never find yourself struggling to be competative in the peak.  Current quiver starts at  7’8 x 21 and goes up to an 8’6 HP epoxy longboard for smaller summer. Well designed boards work so well these days a bigger board doesn’t mean
less fun for non-cruzers still wanting to rail it and bash a lip…Still trying to get in 75 days a year (winters in the Pacific NW are fairly brutal).  Double sessions are fairly rare, a good two - thre hour session and usually pau for the day.

Most important thing during the journey - never stop surfing, focus on the joy of just paddling out and feeling the waves break over your head, just grateful to still be here, to still be  dancing on the water…

After about 15 years of surfing a lot, I did stop surfing.  For 23 years.  I didn't intend it that way, but life threw some weird curves at me, and I handled them the best way I knew how.  I moved away from the coast, and put my energy into what I felt was most important at the time, which involved my family situation, and especially, my daughter. 

Without getting into it too much, I'll just say there were special circumstances involving my daughter, which pretty much taxed my resources to the limit.  After I got through that dark period of my life, with my daughter grown and healthy and married and doing well, I came back to surfing just over one year ago, at age 54. 

Its been a great challenge, and a great pleasure, to be back in the lineup again.  I always knew I'd get back to it eventually.  And one thing is even better now - I'm making my own boards, something I never tried in all my younger years of surfing.  For which I owe everyone here a huge debt of gratitude.

    Howzit KK, I have to agree with John since I have been stopped by cancer as far as regular surfing is concerned but am going to try the SUP thing just to stay in the water and the way I see it is once I catch a wave it will be iike surfing back in the 60;s before the shortboard revolution came about. As long as you want to improve and you are in shape there is nothing to stop you.I was still teaching my self new things when I was 60 and there are a lot of surfers who do the same thing since we may be older in body but we are still young in our minds and heart and that is what counts. I can remember that one thing I was working on was to keep my knees bent a little more when dropping in so I would have more punch off the bottom of my turns since I was changing a 50 year habit of of less bend of my knees and I noticed it made a big difference .I had to remember to keep them bent more so you have to concentrate on making the changes since it doesn't just happen by its self. You are as good as your last session so make the best of it while you can before something like what happened to John or myself happens. Aloha,Kokua

Hey Kit,

I'm 40 in March and beginning to feel it. I'm paying the price for a life spent burning the candle at both ends. Even through a health-kick of 8 years Iyengar and Ashtanga Yoga, I over-did it!

Surfing hurts these days. Old skateboarding wrist injuries mean it hurts just to push off to stand up. I have more limits - Length of sessions, how hard I belt a lip, or the intensity of hammerings I can take before turning around to catch the whitewater and go in.

My focus for my personal boards has shifted - I just want to maximise my enjoyment. More flotation, width for stability - and I could'nt deal with the driftyness of my absolute ol' fave twinfin anymore.

Definately more easily frustrated by crowds, and I spend time sussing out seldom-working spots so I'll be better placed to score it that odd time alone.

And I find myself more aware of what gives the buzz - not only a hooting ride but the first duck-dive of a springtime session, or the clank of cobblestones as a shoreline breaker recedes. These are the things which revive a grommethood awe of the life.

I'm slower all around and excercise is a walk and some very gentle Yoga.

 

JD

 

 

I'm really old now..my ass drags on the pavement....Yesterday I forgot to set the hand brake on my power chair......

It's all down hill from here.....Ha Ha ha ha ,,,,,,I did not slow down..You sped up.....

OldRay

....your friend for life...

Hahah love that Stingray!

Beautiful imagery there Josh. Such a cool sport that you can be so stoked and you haven’t even paddled out yet!! Some of the settings i’ve been in have just blown my mind. Anticipation is such a valuable thing, and definitely does not diminish no matter what life throws at ya!!

 

Kokua, you are one of those guys who obviously has a connection with surfing that is way more than just a pass-time, or even a lifestyle. The amount you contribute here even when you’re going through these issues shows that surfing is more LIFE for you than simply lifestyle. Much respect.

Huck,

Thats a cool photo, one stoked dude. I gotta say that board is one of the best wood efforts around too.

[quote="$1"] Every time I've been surfing since that procedure I've had an episode.  At this point I've basically been dry-docked.  After surfing for 44 years I may be done.  [/quote]

John - we're pullin' for ya, dude.  Keep us posted!

The Kelly Slater interview in the latest surfer magazine gives an interesting perspective on this subject.

first time surfing slowed down for me…how about 27 yrs old with the birth of my first daughter, soon followed 18 months later by my second daughter…if I had to put my finger on the exact point on the time line, there it is

but all this talk of slowing down getting older not surfing as much as good as often…and on and on

sht!  I’m 41 in March, have a 13 and 14 yr old, wife in full time nursing school presently, and work full time…and live in Jax FL…but I still love it, it still consumes me (I actually think I might need some therapy…) but I am thankful every day that surfing is in my life, and I will paddle out today in 2 footers in 54 degree water and have some…fun!

I’ve started lifting again, after many years of not lifting… it feels good, doing 10 miles on the stationary bike (about 32 mins) then lifting for at least one hour…trying to keep this a 2x week, 3x week on a good week

Equipment… width and thickness and all kinds of other things far beyond my own understanding are my friend… I have gone mach 3 on a 6’6 twin keel fish on sub waist high wave… I don’t care how long my board is

I surf longboards, I surf shortboards, I surf mid lengths, body surf… one thing I did quit is skimboarding, as fun as it is, I can’t take the beatings and run wind sprints unless I am able to do it on a very frequent basis a good as I once did

My life might be called the anti-surfing life at the present moment, but my wife will graduate from nursing school, my kids are well… my kids and they are entering the teen years… I go to more violin recitals and horses than I do surfing these days

But I still love it, surfing is not like anything else, period, and we are lucky to have it in our lives, no matter to what degree at any given moment in time

 

 

at 54 I’m surfing as good as, if not better than ever.   I pretty much ride a 6’3" every day, unless the waves get big.  Unless you are injured or sick, don’t buy into the age thing, you’re as old as you think you are. 

Somewhere around 40.  I noticed I could surf about as well as i ever could, but not as consistently as when I was younger. Age is just an adjustment.  You modify your boards a bit, diet, exercise routines, wave counts, etc.  Building my own boards has been am important part of the adjustment.  I never would have been able to pay someone to build all the goofy stuff I make for myself.  As I’ve gotten older my boards have come full circle back to more 70’s type templates with a more modern rocker.  All of them are easy to paddle and let me surf the way I like to surf. Mike

I think  that when my  first Social Security check is direct deposited in my checking account this May…the aches pains might be  less…especially when I am surfing pristine warm sand points down in Chiapas.

Gotta book my La Paz to Mazatlan ferry crossing…

the only question now is how many and which boards to throw up there

rogelio

Your KILLING me Roger.  Is it difficult to get parts for that Dodge down there? Nice roof rack, too.  Mike

Hey Mike,

although it is a 2002…it only has 44 thousand miles…so I doubt if there will be any problems…but i doubt if parts are much of an issue especially if you are not in a hurry…and I wont be…they can put em on a bus etc…

should be a 

Sweet.  Turn left. Not right.  Oh yah, You’ve been down there a couple of times I think.

The view of an enormously over weight surfer is something seldom seen, so life on the east side of US 1 and west of the I-5 makes a huge difference in life styles, go inland a few miles and the waistlines start growing by leaps and bounds

John, Hope you’re OK.  I’ve often wondered what I would do if I couldn’t surf.  For me the answer is obvious- sail

YouTube - Downwind on J125 Warrior

I didn't slow down....everyone else got a lot faster.