Aloha Bill:
That is why I like surfing when you are in the water.... You still make it look so much fun gliding on one of your beautiful balsa boards. BTW, I love those Balsa Bill shorts. Those are the best pairs of shorts I had in a long time. I even wear them for social occations and not just to the beach. They look cool and I feel cool wearing them. Mahalo for the great products.
Thanks,
D
I just turned 56 and it seems within the last 1 1/2 years I've come to a point where I don't feel like I'm at the top of my game. Paddling out has become more of a chore, awkward pop ups here and there and missed waves have all contributed to questioning myself. I've also become a lot more pickier about wave size, conditions and crowds, to the point where I've driven home without even getting wet on occasion. That almost never happened previously. I've resorted to riding thicker boards, starting a training regimen, and have been looking to improving my diet. One surfer that I've always looked up to and still do because of his longevity, is Gerry Lopez. At 60 something he's still riding shortboards, snowboarding and SUP surfing. I think getting back into the shaping room and whittling out some fresh shapes may also help rejuvenate some of the stoke that has been slowly diminshing within the last few years.
Aloha Derrick:
You still rip in my book and can contol the peak at Threes. It's a blast to watch you surf. I even want you to shape a board for me.
Mahalo,
D
Uncle D, I’d never get a wave at “Threes” if I didn’t have you and Clarence running interference for me. Thank you for the aloha.
Love surfing with you all (Bucky, Terry, Curtis) and the rest of you out there.
See you in September.
I’m 64 , started surfing in 1963, never stopped except for 2 years in Tx during chopper school(actually got a board shipped to the ‘nam) and then a short pause after the knee adventure with the MERSA. but, it’s still good, I ride a 8’ bonzer egg and mess around with longboards now and then. Biggest issue is water temp here on the right coast. I have a rule now that started about three years ago----60/40 rule ‘i’m over 60, i’m not going in the water if it’s under 40’.
i find i like to ride a greater variety of toys now—surf mat, bodysurf, outrigger surf, longboard, hobie cat —actually, i’ll try and catch a wave with pretty much anything. serious fun is to go to the beach store and buy a big blow up animal and take it out in fall hurricane swell and see now many waves you can get before it explodes!(drives the lifeguards nutz!)
Here's how it goes for me:
Full on from birth to 19 years old, discovered cars and girls....
Joined the Army, discovered girls, married one, for 3 years I slowed down...
Sped up for another 7 years, met the love of my life, kept powering on for another 3 years..
Had 3 children under the age of 13 months, slowed right down....
Discovered Swaylocks, sped up for another 5 years...
Children, Work for 5 years slowed down again,
Starting to gain momentum every day, working towards full on again.......
Howzit Hicksy, I don't know how old you are and I tried adding up the years you posted and seems like somewheres in the 40's which means you have a long time ahead of you and can get as good as you want if you just keep at it without the speedbumps slowing you down now and then. I was still going strong in my late 50's til I got dry docked at 60 rom the cancer crap. Aloha,Kokua
50 next year Kokua, I like the Ulysses Bike Club motto, "grow old disgracefully"
Howzit Hicksy, When you start getting up there then the best thing to do is keep surfing and not think about your age but how much you love the ocean and the waves. Keeps you young at heart and that is part of the secret. I was still going strong at fiftywhich would be in 1999. Aloha,Kokua
I slowed down mid 40's mostly based on work,3 kids sports and a surf pack that was going earlier and farther each day. I backed down because I couldn't keep up with them. Then, after back and rotator cuff surgery, at 51 I'm at my best!! and lovin it even more. I've mostly surfed longboards, because the guys who got me started were longboarders. Now I surf Ventura, mostly C-street which is great for a long board. I plan on another 20 years with lots of Yoga for the stretch and fitness, constantly push my walking and nose riding style in all conditions (which is a real challenge and fun in million conditions), and making a promise to myself to only surf for fun. Seems obvious, but in my earlier days I paddled out into alot of stuff that I was neither physically fit for nor equiped for because "it was going off". now, with a little bit of wisdom, I'm getting out 3 or 4 times a week and lovin it. While I probably pass on some conditions that I would have gone out in 10 years ago, I think my technique is better and I can handle a wider range of size and conditions because I'm just more honest with myself. If its to much for me to handle, I take pictures to paint later and sit back and appreciate some of the talent, youth, or stupidity.
Surfing to me isn’t about improving my skills. It’s nice if I improve but as long as I keep enjoying ust being in the water, catching at least one great ride (great as in: succesfull take off, two or maybe three turns) during a session, I’ll keep on surfing. I’m 36, married a few years ago, got one daughter and another one on the way. I can’t spend as much time in the water as I used to when I was single, but I catch my waves when I get the chance and it brings a big smile on my face. I can picture myself being over 60 and still paddling out (on a slightly bigger board than the 6 footer I surf now) maybe even teaching my grandchildren to surf.
In other words: as long as surfing makes you smile, skills aren’t that important.
Sixty four and still moving, but still tending to change equipment–Finally went over 7 feet at age 50–Now riding a Linden 8 foot, after giving away my Linden 7’8" to young kid for his GUN!! Adding to that, for smaller, softer days, riding a Kennedy 9’ hi-per longboard (15 3/4 nose–14 3/4 tail, 22 wide, 3" thick) , with an extra tail rocker , and fins moved 1 1/2 inch forward on the sides, and a Bahne box back, so I can surf it , long , short, single , twin, or thruster–It has made a huge difference in being able to surf stuff that I would have once never thought about, but now have to gauge. Ron Romanosky shaped me a 5’ 9" kneeboard, which I am trying to bring in to my repetoire, but kneeling back on my heels has proven tough. Am trying to stretch, but being a carpenter, and after several surgeries, need Rolphing to keep the deep tissue soft and pliable. Things don’t stayed stretched as long, as you get older–My guy tells me now that I have to stretch 5 times a day, to do what once a day did, when I was young. I feel the main thing is to stay in the water–I was at my most viral when I was bodysurfing all the time- 5 hour go outs in deep water, swimming all the time—Like doing full on Pilates, flexing, and yoga at the same time–Water is now too cold where I live, and the cold stiffens my joints more now. Don’t know what else to add, other than attitude is probably what will keep you going after those things that mean the most . Want to surf at sixty, seventy?? I just have to go back to my old stomping rounds at Waikiki, where I grew up, and see the guys I used to know as a kid, still surfing, paddling, SUP’ing, sailing and having a great time with big smiles–Attitude gets my vote…
Maybe the question should be how old were you when you realized you had slowed down. All it takes is one injury and things can go south pretty quick. Even daily Yoga is no guarantee against freak injuries and overuse. Warm water and lack of crowds can provide a jolt of youthful energy, but usually only temporarily. To compensate, I've been mostly riding full template boards between 7' 6" and 8'6" since my forties-I need the extra paddling up north, but I don't really ride 'longboard style'.
When my shoulders are feeling punky, or I'm not getting to my feet quick enough, I sometimes (rarely) go out on an inflatable surf mat. Riding one well is an acquired skill, but heaps of fun even for a punter. If you haven't already, check out the websites for pneumatic (Dale Solomonson) or Fifth Gear Flyer (Paul Gross) surf mats to see what accomplished riders can do with a good wave. Oughta be able to ride a mat right up into the 7th decade, I reckon.
I’ll be 53 later this year. After riding an assortment of boards that haven’t done much to keep my surfing “progressive” I had an exciting week with a 6-6 round pin, and I feel like I’m surfing as well as I did 5 years ago. Funny how your board can make all the difference in the world. Now I just have to get enough water time to get my arms back to where they should be. I kept stretching them while I was in the water and out, so they felt fine. They just need to be stronger and have that extra gear when needed.
After 3 great days of surf, I spend some time moving around my table saw to do some work, then cleaning the yard the next day, and I can barely walk. The wife says I surfed too much, I say the ocean keeps me young, but all the work I do around the house is killing my back.
Macpac, Waikiki is home to many old timers, always has been. The best place for aging surfers to be. She’ll be here waiting for your return.
I wiill be turning 50 this year, and starting to feel it !!
I don't think it's an age thing tho, maybe injuries or time out of the water that
have the most effect. A few years ago I went over to the darkside {longboard}
and it gave me a burst of enthusiasum, learning skills i never would have thought possible !
But just lately it's starting to wear off, I have always had trouble changin from longr to shorter
but i think its time !
Watchin mates revert to shorter boards and surfing well maybe my inspiration !!
Herbie fletcher said it best, "Don't stop" Stop and it's over, "DON'T STOP"
Only just turned 40 this year but am surfing better than I did when 25. I suffered a severe back injury in 92 which meant surfing was agony and could only be done by taking heavy meds before I paddled out… but I still surfed maybe a dozen times a year. That was really my surfing life from when I hurt my back until 2 years ago when I had my back fused and all the pain is gone. I am a tad bit stiffer on my backside and getting to my feet isnt as fluid as it used to be but now I surf as much as possible and as long as possible. I dont get out until it gets dangerous because my arms arent working properly anymore. I dread the day I wont be able to paddle out so am making up for lost time. Since the op I have had the best surfing experiences of my life. I will go out when my mates wont…I love it big. I am 86kgs and surf hp boards from 5’11 to 6’3. My step up is a 6’5 and yes I have a longboard but in truth I just find it boring so never ride it. I will get into long boarding one day but not until I have to. My surfing mates all ride 7’6’s and up. Having a good relationship with a shaper like Josh Dowling ( Speedneedle ) and William Riedel (Stretch) has really helped too. I have my boards dialed in because of these two geniuses and intend to stick with them as my boards change over time. I played lots of rugby, practiced lots of martial arts and lifted lots of heavy weights when I was young (and stupid) and it is truly one of my biggest regrets…should have just surfed…no sport has ever given me a fraction of the enjoyment that surfing has…
" In the distance .... I can see a glow ..."
I'm comin back .......
Thanks for all of the replies and encouragement–Timeline here–I got much better in my 30’s and 40’s-Moved from Northshore to the Mainland in ‘75 --Guess all of life was coming together, and my daughter was born in that timeline–Trips back to Hawaii every year, sometimes two, 15000 miles into Baja in my old 1963 1-ton VW van, with reduction gears, lots of fun and pictures–On top of the world-- Started going to go to a camp in Baja, run by an old friend, at Mag Bay in my early 40’s –Then 50 hit–That was when the Hurricane Guillermo swell hit–Really started to feel my age–Rode that swell on a 7’8" Custom Becker–Pretty good sized swell- Each decade has resulted in some loss, in different areas–Major back surgery in 2004, but back at Mag that August–Again, a little slower, but with no crowds, and a lot of room for error, wonderful to be in the water with friends. When I hit 60, small things again not going right–Knees are starting to get pissed off, another surgery on my right knee (third knee surgery), and Pterygium surgery on my left eye. Longer to spin the board around ,and timing is becoming the biggest factor–Much easier catching larger waves, than smaller, as with the wave falling away from you, you have time to adjust on the drop, and correct if necessary–Shorebreak surf is now pretty much out of the question. Being in construction and boatbuilding most of my life has resulted in a pretty rigid frame, physically, and it needs a lot of coaxing to loosen it up–I would like more info on the mats, --Gregg Deets and I talked about them , and Dale was going to build me one a few years back, but then he had some family problems, and I never followed up–Guess I feel that trying to drag an inflatable mat through a 8 foot closeout may be above my pay grade! As for Waikiki, it is still really magical -Coppertone smell is still the same…- Started my daughter out at the age of 4, and she had a great time… I rent a 10’ longboard everytime I go, and paddle out to Canoes, or Poplars, or Publics, and smell the air, look at the views that I saw as a kid of 12, and hoot and holler at everyone who has the Mana to go out and enjoy what a wonderful watery planet we have. That is one thing that I have improved on, which is the encouragement of younger surfers to find their own way in the water…It really is a decision to go out at each opportunity one can–or else your will find a way to not go out–That begins the long descent–The older you get, the harder it is to climb back up–Thanks again for all of your input and ideas–Mac
Sounds like you've had a good run. I'm with you on the preference for a little more face to provide the time to clamber, rather than hop, to the feet. Then the problem becomes steering your way through the pack sitting inside...
Regarding the inflatable surf mats, based on the film clips I've seen, people ride them at all levels of air pressure. I've found that I spin out on a steep face unless the pressure is quite low. If I've got a reasonable channel to paddle out I leave the beach with relatively high pressure then when I start catching waves I progressively let air out of the valve until the mat starts to 'stick' on the wall.
If there's no channel and I have to punch my way out, then I leave the beach at low pressure and just duck dive. It's work, but but no big deal. I've heard that when conditions are really gnarly, the guys who know what they're doing will completely deflate the mat and just swim themselves out. It's a little hard to picture, but maybe they stuff the rolled up mat into their wetsuits?? Regardless, it's no problem inflating a mat or adding a little air to alter performance once you're outside.
